Highest access: 6,812m (22,334ft)
Duration: 30 days (typically) Days
Location: Nepal/Everest Region
Grade: mixed Alpine AD
Himalayan sights: Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Kongde
Accommodation: Tourist standard to five star as request
Transportation: Car, Flight, Tourist bus
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
Best season: spring: April-May and autumn: September-October
Major Activity: trekking/climbing
Include Activity: Scenic flight to Lukla
Airport: Kathmandu Airport
Departure From: Kathmandu Intl Airport
Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing
Culture: Sherpa and Tamang
First Ascent: 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ)
Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping
Climbing route: Southwest and northeast
Co-ordinates: 27°51'42'' N, 86°51'40'' E
Ama Dablam with its elevation of 6812m is the most demanding mountain peak among mountaineers for climbing. The most attraction in this mountain peak is the view of mountain panorama in Khumbu region. The technicality as well as the beauty of rock & snow combination during climbing experience has made Ama Dablam Expedition a unique expedition destination. Ama Dablam Expedition is such popular that even the summiteers of the top of the world Mt. Everest are also eager to climb this beautiful mountain which is rewarded for the most stunning alpine rock climb of its kind and it is considered for the unique and spectacular ascents. .
The climbing to Ama Dablam is a technical experiment. South-west ridge of the mountain is known as normal climbing route. Though most of the 8000ers are eager to climb Mt. Ama Dablam after their success on them, the beginners start their climbing through Ama Dablam. However it is said that Ama Dablam is also considered to be the technical and difficult for climb. One has to cross difficult ice rocks and steep snow climbing on the climbing route. Climbers usually need to pitch three high camps on the way to Mt. Ama Dablam while ascending. After passing the toughest and difficult tricky saddle ridges one can only reach to the first high camp of Ama Dablam. Then the climber has to turn to the north climbing up through the rocky ground and the boulder.
Every spring and autumn the Ama Dablam Expedition is scheduled by Snowy Horizon management. In spring, the temperature to the Ama Dablam climbing area is getting from cold to hot which is more convenient for approaching to summit after sufficient acclimatization and practice in camp 1-3. Start at the beginning of April and end at the beginning of June is the best recommended period for Ama Dablam Expedition in spring. The total duration will be within 30 days. However, in autumn you may start this expedition since end of August and complete at around end of November and, or any dates during August till November. In this period the temperature toward the expedition area is changing from hot to cold. So, the climber has to face the easier to critical situation for acclimatization for approaching to summit.
Snowy Horizon Expedition has scheduled for “Snowy Ama Dablam Expedition-Spring/Autumn” in every year as per recommended. Thus we strongly request our climbers to choose any of spring or autumn season’s Expedition as per our fixed departures scheduled or having private group at any required period. For converting Ama Dablam Summit Dream to the true please contact us in every autumn and spring of the year.
In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, traveling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries
Full Board: For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food and fuel provisions, and assist the client all the way the summit on this technical climb, where one requires a climbing buddy and a belayer. The climb requires cooperation between teams in setting up fixed ropes. Our camp manager and guides will coordinate work with other teams on the route setting.
Approach to the Base camp is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla and following Everest Base camp trail through Namcha Bazaar to Pengboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche
The Basecamp is located at 4200m.
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangement of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m and High Camp at 5000m.
High Camp is located 150m below the ridge and all other 3 camps are directly on the ridge ensuring a great vantage point for all camps for stunning views.
Thanks to Snowy Horizon for a good support and excellent service in base camp. From there the mission was to go up alone, no fix ropes- no oxygen. I am Jost Kobusch a 21 years young German climber ( https://www.facebook.com/jostgoforit).
"People told me that I am crazy and I knew that it was crazy what I am doing but I first realized the dimension of it when I was standing on an altitude of almost 6000m. In front of the yellow tower which has a difficulty of approximately 5.8/5b+/6- I thought about what the hell I am doing here, is it really just to touch my limits or just to break the world record? But I felt that it was the right thing to do and when my Olympus Mons where standing on the first little spots in the granite wall I forgot about all these questions, I forgot that there was 800m air under my feet, I forgot the world around me. I was just focusing on climbing every move, every holder like it was the only thing I have ever known, there was just no space to think about the deathly consequences of a little mistake. I was in this special place, in this special moment.
10 April/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the Hotel you are booked
11 April/Day 02:Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and formalities for permit and so on.
12 April/Day 03:Drive to domestic airport in early morning, take scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) and trek 4hrs to Phakding (2800m); teahouse accommodation.
13 April/Day 04:Trek 6hrs from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m); teahouse accommodation.
14 April/Day 05:Rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar; it is an active rest day so we take 2hrs walk to the famous Everest view Hotel (3800m) to catch an amazing glimpse of Everest; back at Namche we visit Hilary and Sherpa museum and explore the amazing and exotic town Namche.
15 April/Day 06:Trek 5hrs from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3860m); we visit famous Buddhist monastery here; teahouse accommodation.
16 April/Day 07: Trek 4hrs from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m). Tented camp accommodation begins here.
Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam (6812m)
05 May/Day 26:Clean-up the camp and trek 6hrs from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Tyangboche (3860m); teahouse accommodation.
06 May/Day 27: Trek 7hrs from Tyangboche to Monjo (2800m) via Namche Bazaar; teahouse accommodation.
07 May/Day 28: Trek 5hrs from Monjo to Lukla (2840m), Hotel/teahouse accommodation.
08 May/Day 29: Early morning we take the same scenic 35min flight from Lukla to Kathmandu; transfer to hotel; brief sightseeing in Kathmandu; shopping opportunity; farewell and celebration dinner in the evening.
09 May/Day 30: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.
10 Oct/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the Hotel you are booked
11 Oct/Day 02:Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and formalities for permit and so on.
12 Oct/Day 03:Drive to domestic airport in early morning, take scenic flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2840m) and trek 4hrs to Phakding (2800m); teahouse accommodation.
13 Oct/Day 04:Trek 6hrs from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m); teahouse accommodation.
14 Oct/Day 05:Rest and acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar; it is an active rest day so we take 2hrs walk to the famous Everest view Hotel (3800m) to catch an amazing glimpse of Everest; back at Namche we visit Hilary and Sherpa museum and explore the amazing and exotic town Namche.
15 Oct/Day 06:Trek 5hrs from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3860m); we visit famous Buddhist monastery here; teahouse accommodation.
16 Oct/Day 07: Trek 4hrs from Tyangboche to Ama Dablam Base camp (4400m). Tented camp accommodation begins here.
17Oct-03Nov/08-25:Climbing period (summit Ama Dablam (6812m)
04 Nov/Day 26:Clean-up the camp and trek 6hrs from Ama Dablam Base Camp to Tyangboche (3860m); teahouse accommodation.
05 Nov/Day 27:: Trek 7hrs from Tyangboche to Monjo (2800m) via Namche Bazaar; teahouse accommodation.
06 Nov/Day 28: Trek 5hrs from Monjo to Lukla (2840m), Hotel/teahouse accommodation.
07 Nov/Day 29: Early morning we take the same scenic 35min flight from Lukla to Kathmandu; transfer to hotel; brief sightseeing in Kathmandu; shopping opportunity; farewell and celebration dinner in the evening.
08 Nov/Day 30: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.
Negotiable and Depends on Group Size.
Please Contact at email@example.com
Ama Dablam was first climbed on 13 March 1961 by Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ) via the Southwest Ridge. They were well-acclimatised to altitude, having wintered over at 5800 metres near the base of the peak as part of the Silver Hut Scientific Expedition of 1960-61, led by Sir Edmund Hillary.
Solo Ascent by Martin Boysen (UK); Tom Frost, David Breashears, Greg Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Peter Pilafian, Jonathan Wright (all USA), and Lhakpa Dorje (Nepal) reached the summit on 22 April in blizzard conditions, as part of a well-financed climb-and-film expedition. Doug Robertson and John Wasson (both USA) reached the summit the next day.
1979 Lowe Route on the South Face (VI AI4 M5 1200m), Fist Ascent Solo by Jeff Lowe, 30 April 1979.
1979 North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1600m) by a large French expedition led by Louis Audoubert placed 14 Frenchmen and 4 Nepalese Sherpa in three groups on the summit over three days, 21-23 Oct 1979
1981 Northeast Spur to North Ridge (VI 5.7 70deg 1500m) by Tim McCartney-Snape, Lincoln Hall, and Andrew Henderson (AUS).1983 East Ridge (VI 80deg 1500m) by Alain Hubert (Belgium) and Andre Georges (Switzerland)
1985 North Ridge Austro-German alpine-style ascent by Friedl Huber, Max Berger, Louis Badengruber, Colin Molines and Roman Dirnbok
1985 Ariaki-Sakashita on the west face (VI 5.7 65deg 1400m) by Masayuki Ariaki and Naoe Sakashita (both JP)
1985 Northeast Face (VI mixed 90deg 1400m) winter ascent by Michael Kennedy and Carlos Buhler (both USA)
1996 Stane Belak Šrauf Memorial Route on the northwest face (VI 5.7 AI5 A2+ 1650m) by Vanja Furlan and Tomaž Humar (both from Slovenia), which earned them the 1996 Piolet d'Or
prize. 2001 Northwest Ridge (VI Scottish 7, 2000m) by Jules Cartwright and Rich Cross (both UK)
An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 17 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Summit bids for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 45 to 60 days from base camp. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal and the Tibet mountaineering association in Tibet.
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permits for these mountains. Any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks and general skills and knowledge with ice and rock climbing. Experience and knowledge of ascent and decent on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axe and crampons are also a plus. Attempting these types of peaks also requires excellent physical fitness and good health.
Snowy Horizon Treks and Expeditions operate 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons. Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking with snow climbing and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000M climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000m expedition. Previous 6000m or 7000m experience is fully support and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this
Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding.
Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM and have many years of experience. These workers are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.
To climb peaks of this altitude, fitness is very important, not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for the clients overall safety and enjoyment. Excellent physical fitness is required. Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.
A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.
Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will be waiting for you at the airport. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you.
Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.
You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter supported medical transportation and rescue. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal and more specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.
There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.
Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation.
Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow persons under 18 years of age to climb 8,000 meter peaks.
On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be provided by the lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals and above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa.
Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some options are for the clients to use a Satellite communication device like a Delorme, or a satellite phone.
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable through appropriate trekking pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. Sunburn can also be an issue at altitude, so the use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important.
Simply click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. . If you have any questions, please contact Snowy horizon treks at firstname.lastname@example.org .
Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment, food, climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use Yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own and open the route.
We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount of calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.
In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and verity of juice. At camp one, it may be possible to supply food from base camp.
The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.
All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalaya expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.
Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa and a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.
We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tiber border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri, on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.
Yes, the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.
In Kathmandu we provide the requested category of hotel accommodation which is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic, but due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.
Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges.
Snowy horizon will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.
Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at email@example.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot. In 8000m expedition we advice to use One sport millet or La-sportiva climbing boots, personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.
There are several options for acclimation for Cho Oyu. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is a good option. Some of our clients take advantage of our climbs of Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.
The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. SNOWY HORIZON maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit, trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower and in Nepal manpower and helicopters rescue. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions, which include back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency. In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. Such an evacuation is considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster and the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.
Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health. Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:
Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:
At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.
WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?
WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?
Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:
WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help to carry your day pack or change a pace, take an extra day of rest or descend if necessary.
Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.
With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.
An expedition on Cho Oyu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects. Excellent physical condition is a must. Many of our clients for Cho Oyu expeditions are cyclist, recreational runners and fitness enthusiast. Some of these clients ride 50 to 100 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons. If clients are participating in these are similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition. This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip. This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip. To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition.
There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.
Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period. This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction. The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.
Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page. Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group. Simply click on BOOK NOW/INQUIRE FORM button and give us required details. In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip. We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details. An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence. The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival.
For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation. Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1. Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate. Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp.
Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food. We will then provide a similar acclimatization. If required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one. During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit. At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.
If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success or give up the trip after first trying to summit with camp one, two and three experience and acclimatize.