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Baruntse Expedition (7,129m) - Autumn 2012

Baruntse with the altitude of 7129m is an Expedition Peak lies in Nepal between Mt. Everest (8848m) and Makalu (8463m) in the heart of the Khumbu massif to the west from Makalu. Mt Baruntse has four ridges and four summits being an extensive and proportioned snow peak. The mountain is bounded on the east by Barun Glacier flowing north-south from Cho, to the north-west by the Imja glacier and the Hunku glacier forms the south east frontier.        

Mt. Baruntse was first ascended by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow on 30 May 1954. They have climbed the mountain by the South -East Ridge. Since then many climbers have succeeded to climb Baruntse from this route.  The route is little bit difficult due to being straightforward hard ways to climb. There are hard sections of 50 Degree's elevation with a prominent ice cliff to be climbed facing the risk of avalanche. The climbers became succeeded to climb Baruntse mostly in the spring since the season is the best for climbing the peaks safety. However climbers have reached on to the Baruntse summit in autumn accountably. 

Baruntse lies in The Makalu Barun National Park and Conservation Area, a place of outstanding natural beauty which is recognized internationally for the diversity of its flora and fauna. The route of the trek is inhabited by a wide cross-section of Nepali peoples with diverse cultural backgrounds like Rais, Limbus, Newars, Bhotias, Tamangs and Sherpas. The National Park provides opportunities to photograph a wide variety of native plants and even wildlife.

Snowy Horizon treks and Expedition designed the itinerary for Mt. Baruntse Expedition starting from Kathmandu - Lukla thirty five minute scenic flight and about 11 days trekking on foot up to the Baruntse Base camp described as above and returning the same route till Kathmandu after completing the summit approach. The Base camp of Baruntse located very near to Pach Pokhari at an altitude of 5200m. Mt. Baruntse can be scheduled to climb through Arun valley to Makalu Base camp as an alternative.   

The permits fees are subject to differ depending on seasons and please do not hesitate to contact our online Himalayan Adventure Consultant for more details.

Our Baruntse Climbing Services

In the Base Camp:Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a high quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity. We offer wide range of service from Base Camp logistics to fully guided climbs with individual climbing Sherpas helping their clients to achieve a summit.
High elevation climbing requires not only a set of climbing skills and the fitness level but also the ability to cope with high elevation conditions affecting one ability to function to the extend possible at sea level, where most of climbers are living.
Our philosophy is to support climbers with the skill and high altitude genetic adaptation ability of a Climbing Sherpa, who was born and grew up at high elevation as did his predecessors.
Baruntse as all other 7000m peaks require set-up of 2-3 high camps, where the gear, food and fuel has to be carried in. No matter how physically strong and fit one is at the sea level, at high level your physical efficiency drops considerably and the team of Climbing Sherpas pooled from all clients will set-up the route and allow you to summit.
Having personal Climbing Sherpa eliminates arbitrage of the ‘Leader’ to decide who will get limited climbing support on the summit day. In the emergency situation the classic expedition Leader has responsibility for a number of people including themselves with impaired physical abilities due to high altitude, while Climbing Sherpa has only responsibility for his own client and with high physical abilities at high elevation due to natural genetic predisposition and all in cooperation of other expedition Climbing Sherpas. Our Climbing Sherpas are highly trained and experienced climbers doing high elevation climbs in Nepal and Tibet season after season.
We believe that our philosophy of an expedition with the Basecamp Leader-Coordinator and the team of Climbing Sherpas assigned to individual climbers is by far the most efficient and safest way to achieve high elevation summit.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advise and support. Hey also know personally most of other Climbing Sherpas and network together vin the Base camp regardless of the operator they work for.

Full Board:For full board clients, who would be less experienced climbers or single climbers requiring a climbing buddy, we provide personal tent and food at high camps with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route. Our Climbing Sherpas will network, cooperate and work with other clients Climbing Sherpas on the route to ensure safety of his client as well al overall expedition team.
After arriving to the Base camp (5300m) we will take a day or so of acclimatizing rest and preparations including snow practice so that we all develop common understanding and refresh our basic climbing and rescue techniques and develop our climbing protocol. Our climb protocol will follow a standard high elevation principles of acclimatization and building higher camps progressively.
The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located on the Hunku glacier at the foot of the mountain on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be either filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiling.
We will first climb to Camp 1 located at 6100m along the Hunku glacier to the 150m long steep gully leading to West Col. We will set-up fixed rope bee line to the Col, climb to Camp 1 and return to Base camp for overnight rest. As a next step we climb up to camp 1, set it up and stay there overnight. We will explore route to camp 2 and return to the base Camp for another rest day.
We move from the Base Camp directly to camp 2 (6400m), setup the camp and stay there overnight. There will be an opportunity for summit attempt for members who feel strong.We return to Base camp for couple of rest days to rest and recover followed by another summit attempt.Our program allows 9 days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength. It give us plenty of opportunities to carry supplies to camp 1 and 2 and few opportunities of summit push.

Approaches to ABC

Via Mera La Pass and the Hongu Valley
We will follow a standard approach to from Lukla to Mera peak via Zatrwala Pass and picturesque Hinku valley, where we undergo acclimatization at Tangnag and Khare. From Mera La pass we will have an option to climb easy Mera Peak via Mera glacier as a acclimatization and warmup to Baruntse.
From Mera la Pass we down climb to Hunku glacier valley and follow it to baruntse Base camp at the base of Baruntse below the West Col with one overnight camp at Seto Pokhari.

Climbing Routes

Normal Route - Southeast Ridge
The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000m. We will setup fixed line there.
The ridge geometry and position makes it prone to accumulation of cornices. Despite the cornices appearing very stable, we safeguard the steeper sections by fixed lines in places where we have to traverse between the camps. The avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain appears to be low. The most successful ascents are made in the spring when good snow conditions prevail. This is also objectively the safest time on the mountain. We establish the Base Camp at 5300m (17,400ft) in a broad open valley next to a beautiful lake on the lateral moraine of the Hunku glacier near the base of the mountain.
Camp 1 (6100m): To reach camp 1 (6100m) located on the West Col on the edge of Upper Barun glacier we traverse Hunku glacier to a steep gully leading directly to West Col. The 150m steep 50deg climb to the West Col from the glacier will be fixed with ropes to provide a bee line to camp 1 for safe carrying of the loads required for the climb.
Camp 2 (6400m): Camp 2 (6400m) is located on the edge of the Upper Barun glacier at the start of Southeast Ridge. From camp 1at West Col we begin a long glacier ascent on low angled glacial slope; we may to use a fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses.
Summit Day: From camp 2 we climb-up is a short steep 75 degree ice wall to a small col at 6500m. Next section to 6700m is 45deg snow shoulder after which we reach a sharp summit ridge of Baruntse, which we follow to the wide summit cone leading to mtru summit at 7129m.The view from the summit is just incredible, truly stunning views of Lhotse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.

Testimonials

“Mera Peak and Baruntse Expedition-Autumn 2012”

Mera Peak and Baruntse Expedition

We had an unforgettable trip with Snowy Horison; especially in trekking route and base camp, whole staffs were very kind, responsible and hospitable. Our cook (Pemba) was perfect and he cooked delicious foods and do high quality services in difficult conditions. All arrangement were unique and on time.

So we are happy to recommended any one to contact Mr. Rishi Bhandari and his company Snowy horizon when you are planning lifetime mountaineering adventure........Read More

Baruntse Climbing Map

Enlarge Map

Itinerary Details of Baruntse Expedition Autumn 2012

02 Oct/ Day 01: arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel

03 Oct/ Day 02: Rest and last minute preparation, Shooping in kathmandu.

04 Oct/ Day 03: Trek from Lukla Village to Chutanga (3050m.) it takes about four hours.

05 Oct/ Day 04: Trek from Chutanga to Khartitang(3900m) via Zatrawala Pass (4610m.) It takes about six hours.

06 Oct/ Day 05: Trek from Khartitang to Kothe (4095m.) which takes about four hours.

07 Oct/ Day 06: Trek from Kothe to Tangnang (4356m.) (Sabal Tsho-Lake) following Hinku Valley (4600m.).

08 Oct/ Day 07: Rest day at Thangnang for acclimatization.This will be a rest day to let your bodies recover from the past days of hiking. You will relax and soak up the beautiful views of peaks and glaciers surrounding the head of the Hinku Valley and you may visit Sabal Tsho Lake.

09 Oct/ Day 08: Trek from Tangnang to Khare(5045m)which takes about five hours.

10 Oct/ Day 09: Rest day at Khare for acclimatization.

11 Oct/ Day 10: Trek from Khare to Mera La (Pass) (5350m.) which takes about six hours and you camp here.

12 Oct/ Day 11: Trek and climb from Mera Base Camp to High camp (5,780m): 4-5hrs

13 Oct/ Day 12: Summit Day; Mera High Camp to Summit (6,654m) and return to Mera la.

14 Oct/ Day 13: Trek from Mera La (Pass) to Seto Pokhari Camp(4850m) which takes about six hours you camp here.

15 Oct/ Day 14: Trek from Seto Pokhari to Baruntse Base Camp and prepare Base Camp

16-28 Oct/D15-27: Climbing period (Baruntse summit period 7129m)

29 Oct/ Day 28: Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) Trek to Seto Pokhari(4850m) which takes about six hour you may camp here.

30 Oct/ Day 29: Trek from Seto Pokhari to to Mera La (5350m).which takes about six hours you may camp here.

31 Oct/ Day 30: Trek from Mera La to Thangnang (4356m)which takes about six hours.

01 Nov/ Day 31: Trek from Thangnang to Kothe(4095m), which takes about four hours.

02 Nov/ Day 32: Trek from Kothe to Khartitang(3900m) which takes about six hours.

03 Nov/ Day33: Trek from Khartitang to Chutanga(3050m) which takes approximately five hours.

04 Nov/ Day 34: Trek from Chutanga to Lukla(2800m) and it takes about four hours. This last evening in the mountains
is the ideal opportunity for a farewell party with our staff.

05 Nov/ Day 35: Early in the morning fly from Lukla to Kathmandu, which takes about 35 minutes, transfer to hotel and Leisure day and shopping in Kathmandu fire well dinner with culture program in Kathmandu

06 Nov/ Day 36: Final Departure or alternatively Join other activities.

Note:

  • the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
  • the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
  • For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
  • The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price

  • Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Baruntse Expedition Trip

Full Board Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport (by Non A/C Vehicles) as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • 4 Nights accommodations at 4 Star hotels in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
  • Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member and Staff including airport tax.
  • All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/ Lodge/ Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Per person 35kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 25kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mt.Baruntse.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Baruntse
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteer Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  • Emergency Oxygen mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges and Gamow Bags.
  • We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)

Full Board Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner, etc.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Transportation is not on disposal basis. It is strictly as per the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be charged extra.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera).
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary

Base Camp Service Cost Include


  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • 4 nights 4 star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
  • Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member and Staff.
  • All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Baruntse
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • Per person 30 kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 20kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and kitchen crew up to base camp.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/ Pashmina etc.)

Base Camp Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Climbing sherpa and High altitude food
  • Tend obove Base Camp
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
  • Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s)
  • Appropriate food for high altitude.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.

Rental Price List

Item Rental Cost US$ Purchase Cost US$
Expedition Tent US$ 150.00 US$ 300.00
Rucksack (small) US$ 50.00 US$ 150.00
Rucksack (large) US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
Gas Stove US$ 25.00 US$ 100.00
Oxygen bottle - US$ 500.00
Oxygen mask + Regulator US$ 250 (second Hend) US$ 900.00
Sleeping bag US$ 100.00 US$ 400.00
Down Jacket US$ 100.00 US$ 500.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket US$ 200.00 US$ 500.00

 

Climbing Sherpa Fee U$1,900 (if required by client for base camp service user)