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Cho-Oyu Expedition North (8,201m/26,906ft)

  • Overview
  • Autumn Dep.
  • Spring Dep.
  • Cost Include/Exclude
  • History
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Facts of the Trip

Highest access: 8,201m (26,906ft)

Duration: 44 (typically) Days

Location: Nepal/Tibet border, 30km west of Everest

Grade: Moderate Climb (PD++)

Himalayan sights: Friendship peak, Everest, Lhotse, Shishapangma

Accommodation: Three star to five star as request

Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus

Group Size: 01-12 person per Group

Best season: Late spring and autumn

Major Activity: trekking/climbing

Include Activity: Zhangbu, Naylam and Tingri tour

Country: Tibet, China

Airport: Kathmandu Airport

Departure From: Kathmandu Intl Airport

Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period

Culture: Tibeten Culture

First Ascent: Australian Joseph Joechler, Herbert Tichy (Italy), Pasang Dawa Lama (Nepal), October 19, 1954

Mode of Travel: Hotel/Guest house on route, Camping during Climbing period

Climbing route: North-west Ridge

Co-ordinates: 28°05'37''N, 86°39'43''E

When you are looking easier to strenuous mountains to climb Cho-Oyu will be the easier 8000m mountain for experience. The mountain peak is with elevation of 8201m i.e. 26901ft and is considered as the easiest one. Cho-Oyu the mountain peak lays in Tibet and Nepal both however is easier to climb from Tibet side is the 6th highest peak on earth. It is easier to climb from North West ridge of Cho-Oyu because you do not have to face more technical difficulties. The route has big snowfields and only a little objective danger. The base camp of Cho-Oyu Expedition is easily accessible via Tingri of Tibet by 4-wheel-drive vehicle which is often guided by a Chinese-Tibetan Liaison Officer and guide provided by Tibet Mountaineering Association. The mountain is located 30km west of Mt. Everest and straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet as well.

Though the peak can be climbed from both the Nepalese side up on south face and north-east ridge routes and Tibetan side along the Northwest ridge route with North approach being an easier and a standard route, which was also the route of the first summit; Tibet side North-West ridge is more usual and operated. The mountain is climbable during both spring and autumn seasons.

The South side of Cho Oyu expedition has an impressive 3000m Southwest face and two Northeast and Southwest ridges containing technical routes which are within Nepal. The approach to South side Base Camp is from Lukla through scenic Khumbu region.

The climbing team starts climbing Cho Oyu from Tibet after 5 days overland trip from Kathmandu to the Chinese base camp with acclimatization stops in Zhangbu, Nyalam and Tingri. You are stopping 2 days acclimatization and preparation yak for carry logistic up to Base Camp (5700m). Snowy Horizon group will spend 24 days committed to summit with multiple equipment and supplies carry over and acclimatization to camp 1 and 2 before attempting the summit.

Snowy Horizon began to operate Cho-Oyu expedition in its own management since autumn 2011 ant offers quality service to ensure comfort and support level maximizing chances of successful summit opportunity. The quality here means private transport to the base camp in a comfortable Jeep, experienced high altitude climbing Sherpa guide, Tibetan TMA liaison officer in the ABC and nutritious menu customized for customer taste with as much of fresh veggies as possible, freshly cooked, with snacks and drinks available 24 hours. We supply quality North face personal tents, spacious and comfortable dining tent with functional and comfortable furniture, efficient heater and awesome pump assisted showers.

Our High altitude climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and qualified from high mountain area in Nepal. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical western style climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. We provide modern quality gear and equipment to our guiding staff and teach them how to use it.

29 Aug: Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer

30 Aug-01 Sep: Day 02-04:
Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities for Cho-Oyu permit and China Visa.

02 Sep: Day 05: Departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m)/Kerung (Optional); Immigration formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m)/Nyalam; overnight in hotel.

03 Sep: Day 06: Two hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

04 Sep: Day 07: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

05 Sep: Day 08: Four hours drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m); overnight in hotel.

06 Sep: Day 09: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

07 Sep: Day 10: After breakfast four hours drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5200m); camp overnight.

08-09 Sep: Day 11-12:
Rest and acclimatization at Chinese Base Camp; Provision of Yaks and preparation for Advance Base Camp (ABC) trek.

10 Sep: Day 13: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5300m) along the 4x4 track.

11 Sep: Day 14: Trek from Middle Camp to the ABC (5700m) of Cho Oyu.

12 Sep-03 Oct: Day 15-37:
Climbing Period – Summit Cho Oyu (8201m).

04 Oct: Day 38:Dismantling ABC; trek to Middle Camp; drive to Tingri; overnight in hotel.

05 Oct: Day 39:Six hours drive from Tingri to Zhangmu/Nyalam; overnight in hotel.

06 Oct: Day 40:Early morning drive to the border at Kodari/Kerung; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu.

07 Oct: Day 41:Leisure day in Kathmandu (Contingency day).

08 Oct: Day 42:Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

  • Cost depends on Group size and Hotel Category in Hotels in Kathmandu.
  • The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers.
  • Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified.
  • Additional activities may be added as climbers request with appropriate additional cost.
  • For any kind of change please contact us by mail or call.

08 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer.

9-10 April/Day2-3: Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities.

11 April/Day 04: Early morning departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m); border formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m); overnight in hotel.l

12 April/Day 05: Two hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

13 April/Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

14 April/Day 07: Four hours drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m); overnight in hotel.

15 April/Day 08:Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

16 April/Day 09: After breakfast four hours drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5200m); camp overnight.

17-18 April/10-11: Rest and acclimatization at Chinese Base Camp; Provision of Yaks and preparation for Advance Base Camp (ABC) trek.

19 April/Day 12: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5300m) along the 4x4 track.

20 April/Day 13: Trek from Middle Camp to the ABC (5700m) of Cho Oyu.

21-15 May/14-38: Climbing Period – Summit Cho Oyu (8201m).

16 May/Day 39: Dismantling ABC; trek to Middle Camp; drive to Tingri; overnight in hotel.

17 May/Day 40: Six hours drive from Tingri to Zhangmu; overnight in hotel.

18 May/Day 41: Early morning drive to the border at Kodari; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu.

19 May/Day 42: Leisure day in Kathmandu (Contingency day).

20 May/Day 43: Leisure day, sightseeing in Kathmandu (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, And Pashupatinath); Farewell-Celebration dinner.

21 May/Day 44: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

  • Cost depends on Group size and Hotel Category in Hotels in Kathmandu.
  • The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers.
  • Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified.
  • Additional activities may be added as climbers request with appropriate additional cost.
  • For any kind of change please contact us by mail or call.

Expedition Cost:

  •  Negotiable and Depends on Group Size.

  •  Please Contact at info@trekkingagencynepal.com

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  • Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Cho-Oyu climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200 per person).
  • Tibetan official Liaison officer for Cho-Oyu Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam-Tingri -Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for sharing base camp staffs.
  • Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain. 
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  •  Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Climbing guide; Oxygen and mask-regulator; ice fall charges and tent for camp 1, 2, 3.
  • Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp.
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and member.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  •  Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Cho-Oyu climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200 per person).
  •  Tibetan official Liaison officer for Cho-Oyu Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam-Tingri -Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  •  Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • 1:1 experienced climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staffs sharing with team.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • 2 Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (Optional).
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for private Sherpa and sharing base camp staffs.
  • Ice falls charges  and all tent for camp 1, 2, 3  sharing with private Sherpa·
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and climbing member.
  • Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain. 
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  •  Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Ice fall garbage deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.

1850s British Survey of India

The Great Trigonometric Survey of India, part of the British Survey of India which began in 1803, made distance measurements of many high Himalayan peaks in the 1850s including those in the Mount Everest region. Cho Oyu, not originally assigned an identification number, was later named T45 and then MI since it appeared to be a minor peak.
1921 First Exploration of Cho OyuLieutenant Colonel Charles Howard-Bury (1883-1963) led a British Everest reconnaissance expedition that explored the Cho Oyu area. The group included George Leigh Mallory, who was on his first trip to the Mount Everest region. They explored the area for two months and made the first photographs of Cho Oyu from Nangpa La, a high pass between Nepal and Tibet.

1952 First Attempt Cho Oyu

A British expedition led by Eric Shipton made a serious attempt to climb Cho Oyu. Shipton's goals for the ascent, besides the summit, were "to test the ability of several mountaineers to climb to great heights;" to find a group of climbers able to attempt Mount Everest in 1953; to test oxygen gear, clothing, and equipment; and to study the physiology of high-altitude climbing. Unfortunately, the Chinese closed the Tibetan side of the mountain and the best feasible route. The climbers, including Edmund Hillary, attempted the Southwest Ridge but failed so they tried the illegal northwest side of the peak alpine style and reached 22,400 feet before defeat. Hillary had "felt almost a sense of shame that we'd allowed ourselves to admit defeat so readily."

1954 First Ascent Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu was successfully climbed in the post-monsoon season of 1954 via the Northwest ridge. At 3:00 p.m. on October 19, Austrian climbers Joseph Jöchler and Herbert Tichy and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama who led the ice cliff that Shipton had described as "obviously impassible." (AAJ 29 1955, p. 178) stepped onto the summit of Cho Oyo after climbing almost 4,000 feet in ten hours from Camp IV. Both Austrians were suffering from severe frostbite, while Pasang, having hiked over 30 miles and gained 10,000 feet to Camp II after going down for supplies, wept tears of joy, which froze on his cheeks, as he unfurled the flags of Nepal, Austria, and India on his ice axe.This route has remained as the standard climbing route for commercial expeditions since.

1983 Reinhold Messner's Ascent

The great alpinist Reinhold Messner climbed Cho Oyu on his fourth attempt with Hans Kammerlander and Michael Dacher. The trio climbed it alpine style and without Sherpas in four days up the southwest flank for Cho Oyu's fourth overall ascent. On the last day, they climbed over 3,000 feet of elevation to the summit. Messner later become the first climber to successfully ascend all fourteen 8,000-meter peaks.

1985 First Winter Ascent

On February 12 two Polish climbers Maciej Berbeka and Maciej pawlikowski reached the summit followed by two other Polish climbers Andrzj Heinrich and Jerzy Kukuczka

1994 Speed Climbing Record

On May 13 Carlos Carsolino got the summit implementing a world record speed ascent from base camp, reached in 18 hours and 45 minutes. First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.

2006 Speed Climbing Southwest face

On October 2, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical ice fall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.

Approaches to Cho Oyu from North (Tibet):

  • From the north, the peak approached from the Tingri Plain, to the Palung Glacier that lies below the peak's north face, and the Gyabrag Glacier that surrounds the Northwest face.
  • Typically, it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam (3700m). From Tingri expedition takes a day rest at Chinese Base Camp (5000m), Middle Camp (5300m) before arriving at Cho Oyu North Advanced Base Camp (5700m). It takes 10 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes:

Cho Oyu has three main ridges: the Northwest, the Northeast, and the Southwest and impressive Southwest face rising 3000m from the ABC.

South Side:

  • South side of Cho Oyu is a great climbing playground for high altitude climbers because of the cool face relatively easily accessible for skilled climbers.
  • In 1994, Yasushi Yamanoi has completed First solo ascent via the South West face. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp.
  • The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.

North Side:

  • The Northwest Ridge is also known as Tichy Route. Tichy Route is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peak. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills as it is a less then 50deg snow-field with one very short section of yellow band rock with fixed lines. The route begins from the Gyabrag Glacier at the base of Peak 6395 and the location of the advanced base camp (ABC) at 5700 m (18,700').
  • The route skirts first and then ascends the screed and fern on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400 m (21,000') at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is very nice as it is well sheltered from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the base of the Northwest ridge.
  • From Camp 1 the route follows the Northwest ridge, and then opens out onto the Northwest face of the upper mountain. About halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is a steeper 30-50m section consisting of moderate ice cliff. Most of the route between Camp 1 and 2 is fixed with rope because there are hundreds of unskilled mountaineers with huge entourage of climbing Sherpas provided by commercial operators.
  • Camp 2 is located at about 7200 m (23,500'). Some expeditions fix an intermediate temporary camp between C1 and C2, just below the ice cliff on the Northwest ridge at about 6600 m (21,600'), especially during the first or second acclimatization trip.
  • Most of operators fix a high camp at about 7450 m (24,500') just below yellow bands to maximize the chance of success on summit day but occasional parties do the summit from C2. Usually the yellow bands are fixed with rope, which requires some strenuous climbing. Above this, more rocky bands there are a steep summit ridge snowfield. Expeditions usually continue up this steep snowfield to the crest of the Northwest Ridge and the false summit. From here climbers cross a broad plateau, with a very small rise to the true summit of 8201 m (26, 901 feet). From the true summit there is an incredible view of Everest and Makalu.

Other Possibilities:

  • Most of the climbing is on ice and snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a few very short sections of steeper rock and ice. The highest technical section is 6m high and safely climbed with fixed ropes. This makes it a perfect for ski and snowboard descent. The first American ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak was on October 1, 2002, when Montana ski mountaineer Kristopher Erickson reached the summit of Cho Oyu and then skied down.
  • Speed climbing is another option on Cho Oyu. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
  • Is Spring Climbing Better Then Autumn? On Cho Oyu, it does not matter. Each season has is slightly different and has different attractions but for Cho Oyu being lower then Everest the reliability odds of good weather are roughly even.
  • Spring starts cold and then warms up so acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Cho Oyu because of high objective avalanche danger on its 50deg slopes past C3. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
  • Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.

An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 17 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Summit bids for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 45 to 60 days from base camp. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal and the Tibet mountaineering association in Tibet.

There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permits for these mountains. Any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks and general skills and knowledge with ice and rock climbing. Experience and knowledge of ascent and decent on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axe and crampons are also a plus. Attempting these types of peaks also requires excellent physical fitness and good health.

Snowy Horizon Treks and Expeditions operate 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons. Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking with snow climbing and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000M climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000m expedition. Previous 6000m or 7000m experience is fully support and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this

Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding.

Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM and have many years of experience. These workers are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.

To climb peaks of this altitude, fitness is very important, not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for the clients overall safety and enjoyment. Excellent physical fitness is required. Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.

A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.

Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will be waiting for you at the airport. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter supported medical transportation and rescue. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal and more specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.

There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.

Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation.

Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow persons under 18 years of age to climb 8,000 meter peaks.

On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be provided by the lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals and above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa.

Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some options are for the clients to use a Satellite communication device like a Delorme, or a satellite phone.

At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable through appropriate trekking pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. Sunburn can also be an issue at altitude, so the use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important.

Simply click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. . If you have any questions, please contact Snowy horizon treks at info@trekkingagencynepal.com .

Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment, food, climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use Yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own and open the route.

We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount of calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and verity of juice. At camp one, it may be possible to supply food from base camp.

The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.

All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalaya expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.

Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa and a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.

We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tiber border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri, on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.

Yes, the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

In Kathmandu we provide the requested category of hotel accommodation which is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic, but due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.

Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges.

Snowy horizon will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.

Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at  info@trekkingagencynepal.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot.  In 8000m expedition we advice to use One sport  millet or La-sportiva   climbing boots,  personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

There are several options for acclimation for Cho Oyu. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is a good option. Some of our clients take advantage of our climbs of Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.

The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. SNOWY HORIZON maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit, trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower and in Nepal manpower and helicopters rescue. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions, which include back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency. In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. Such an evacuation is considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster and the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.

Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health.  Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help to carry your day pack or change a pace, take an extra day of rest or descend if necessary.
Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication.  Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination.  Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter.  Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

An expedition on Cho Oyu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects.  Excellent physical condition is a must.   Many of our clients for Cho Oyu expeditions are cyclist, recreational runners and fitness enthusiast.   Some of these clients ride 50 to 100 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons.  If clients are participating in these are similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition.  This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip.  This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip.   To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition. 
There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period.  This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction.   The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.

Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page.  Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group.  Simply click on BOOK NOW/INQUIRE FORM button and give us required details.   In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip.  We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details.  An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence.  The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival. 
For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/terms_conditions.php
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/how_to_book_trek_in_nepal.php

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation.  Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1.  Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate.  Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp. 

Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food.  We will then provide a similar acclimatization.  If  required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one.  During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions.  If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit.  At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success or give up the trip after first trying to summit with camp one, two and three experience and acclimatize.

Client Review

Cho-Oyu Expedition North (8,201m/26,906ft)

Rated 5/5 based on 26 customer reviews

Stebelski Lukasz Bartosz

“Outstanding & complete service to support your dreams- Cho-Oyu Autumn 2011!”

Snowy Horizon has provided an outstanding and complete service on my first 8000 Himalaya climb to Cho Oyu (summitted 1 Oct). This was my first solo expedition ever and I was a bit apprehensive, but Snowy Horizon Team have truly taken care of all aspects of my trip, so I could fully focus on the climbing. Starting with a very personal airport welcome, with great lodging in Thamel, Kathmandu, good transport and most importantly an experienced Sherpa support from Pema, who was an amazing climbing partner and support. His no-nonsense approach, good technical and physical preparation let me stand atop my first eighthousander with a true sense of security and pride. Likewise, for the basecamp service - just amazing: a mushroom pizza and cherry-topped cake after the summit at 5700meters was truly a delight. I look forward to use the support of Mr. Bhandari and Team when planning for my next goal: to climb Everest before I'm 40!

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