Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,201M)- Autumn 2013
Snowy Horizon offers the best value packages for you to climb the 6th highest Mountain in this world in autumn 2012. That is Cho-Oyu Expedition autumn 2013, one of the classic Himalayan climbs. Autumn is the best season to experience the summit of 8201m Cho-Oyu Mountain. We offer fixed departure for this expedition in this coming autumn featuring our unique safety and quality climbing system.
Mount Cho-Oyu expedition is a unique opportunity for aspiring high altitude mountaineers and climbers to extend their experiences into the extreme high altitudes.This expedition is the major step for your preparation to reach in the summit of the world’s highest peak, the Mt. Everest. Cho Oyu means ‘Goddess of Turquoise’, as its stark shadows appear turquoise in the light of the setting sun when viewed from Tibet. This mountain is a vast bulk of sweeping snow slopes and clean glaciated lines; the most approachable yet impressive first 8000m peak with the altitude to test your acclimatization capabilities.
Generally, the uncomplicated terrain of Cho-Oyu Mountain with comparatively easyclimb and low objective dangers affords high degree of the summit success. We have had continuous Chu-Oyu basecamp presence over last 3 years and all of our climbers had succeeded to reach in the summit. There aretwo reasons for the successthe climbers and the support crew. We offer well trained, experienced and helpful climbing team working together including Climbing Sherpas, cooks and helpers.All our expedition staff has wonderful team spirit helping climbing members to reach in the summit.
The climb of Mt. Cho Oyu is a serious undertaking and demands fitness, mountaineering skill and selfsufficiency from those considering it. We provide experienced leadership, a comfortable base camp, a strong Sherpa team and ample supplies above Advance Base Camp. It is typical for climbers to use oxygen on summit day, so we include two bottles, plus a Top Out mask for the expedition. Snowy Horizon has developed good reputation and high recognition from international climbers as quality8000m Himalayan operator of Cho Oyu, Shishapangma and Mt. Everest expeditions from Tibet side and many expeditions to several mountains from Nepal side including the Mt. Everest. Our Cho-Oyu expedition autumn 2012 is led by Mr.Robert Mariusz Jedynak from Poland and Mr. Mingma Sherpa, the Mt. Everest summiteers (more than 8 times) from Nepal to assist you with the Cho-Oyu summit. We would like to invite you to join to join our team for autumn 2012 departing1st September 2012.
We will take you overland from Kathmandu to Tibet via the Kodari Highway to Kodari, where we cross the Friendship Bridge. The journey will takeyou across the Tibetan Plateau with the overnight acclimatization stop in Naylam, before reaching Chinese Base Camp. From here, we load up Yaks and trek to Cho Oyu Base Camp, below the North West face. The route above Base Camp consists mainly of low-angled snow slopes up to 30° with one short steep section to bypass formed byseracs barrier at 6,400m. We use three camps on the mountain; the highest at 7,500m is the launch pad for the summit, which is reached in 5 to 8 hours under normal conditions.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and we will stay there for two nights or moredepending on the acclimatization progress of our members. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable with Nepali cook and dining tent before hiking up towards the advance base camp. The ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by spectacular peaks. There is also Nangpa La high pass nearby, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet. From the ABC, you will see superb scenery of Cho Oyu. The ABC of Chu-Oyu is situated reasonably high and the hike to camp 1 and camp 2 is relatively short and therefore you will be able to visit them few times before the summit push but you will spend most of time in the ABC. This is a very pleasant strategy and it improves your chances of summit success while sparing vast amount of energy for acclimatization.
Camp 1 (6,400m):Initial approached to camp 1 takes 6-8 hours via an initial walk up the Gyabrag Glacier and then up steep scree to a broad snow shoulder,the location of camp 1. Subsequent approaches can be much faster.
Camp 2 (7,000m):From camp 1 the route followsthe snow ridge with a steep 50 meter ice wall being the hardest climbing section however it is relatively straightforward. With a big contingent of climbing teams ropes are fixed in places to make the ascend efficient. Normally the journey to camp 2 can be completed within 7-9 hours.
Camp 3 (7,500m): Once again on easy ground the journey to camp 3 takes around 4 hours, but at this altitude real determination is required to deal with the effects of the altitude.
Summit Day: It takes 6-8 hours to reach the summit initially up easy snow and rock to the summit plateau at which point it is only altitude, weather and fitness that will stop you reaching the sixth highest summit.
We offer additional support and a Personal Sherpa Option for our climbers. We will exclusively assign to you one of our best Sherpas, who has already summitted Cho Oyu and Everest several times. Our Climbing Sherpas have graduated from the Khumbu Sherpa Climbing Schooland are proficient in English. As a small, two-person team, you will be able to take advantage of the "best of both worlds" with all the "horsepower" of the main Snowy Horizon team at your disposal in case of emergency, but also having the additional flexibility afforded by a climbing partner who is committed to climb exclusively on your own schedule, when you want to. Your personal Sherpa will also be available to help carry your personal gear and extra oxygen.
We also offer a service for trekkers who wish to accompany the expedition; please contact us for more information. We have a limited number of spaces for trekkers on this team. If you are strong, it is possible to hike all the way to Camp 1 which is about 6400mas a day trip without having to spend the night there. If you are looking for a challenging trek, this is the one.
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- Previous Groups & Photos
- Spring Departure
Approaches to ABC
From South (Nepal): The approached on its south side is from Thame valley of the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Lungsampa Glacier. It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Dole (4110m), Machherma (4470m), Gokyo (4790m), Gyazumba Tsho Lake (4990m) to Cho Oyu South Base Camp (5215m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
From North (Tibet): From the north, the peak is approached from the Tingri Plain, to the Palung Glacier that lies below the peak's north face, and the Gyabrag Glacier that surrounds the Northwest face. Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam(3700m). From Tingri typically expeditions take a day rest at Chinese Base Camp (5000m), Middle Camp (5300m) before arriving at Cho Oyu North Advanced Base Camp (5700m). It takes typically 10 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
Climbing Routes
Cho Oyu has three main ridges: the Northwest, the Northeast, and the Southwest and impressive Southwest face rising 3000m from the ABC.
South Side: South side of Cho Oyu is a great climbing playground for high altitude climbers because of the cool face relatively easily accessible for skilled climbers.
1994 First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.
On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
North Side:The Northwest Ridge also known as the Tichy Route is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peak. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills as it is a less then 50deg snow-field with one very short section of yellow band rock with fixed lines.
The route begins from the Gyabrag Glacier at the base of Peak 6395 and the location of the Advanced base camp (ABC) at 5700 m (18,700').
The route skirts first and then ascends the scree and firn on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400 m (21,000') at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is very nice as it is well sheltered from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the base of the Northwest ridge.
From Camp 1 the route follows the Northwest ridge, and then opens out onto the Northwest face of the upper mountain. About halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is a steepers 30-50m section consisting of moderate ice cliff. Most of the route between Camp 1 and 2 is always fixed with rope because there are hundreds of unskilled mountaineers with huge entourage of climbing sherpas provided by commercial operators.
Camp 2 is located at about 7200 m (23,500'). Some expeditions fix an intermediate temporary camp between C1 and C2, just below the ice cliff on the Northwest ridge at about 6600 m (21,600'), especially during the first or second acclimatization trip.
Most of operators fix a high camp at about 7450 m (24,500') just below yellow bands to maximize the chance of success on summit day but occasional parties do the summit from C2. Usually the yellow bands are fixed with rope, which requires some strenuous climbing. Above this, more rocky bands there is a steep summit ridge snowfield. Expeditions usually continue up this steep snowfield to the crest of the Northwest Ridge and the false summit. From here climbers cross a broad plateau, with a very small rise to the true summit of 8201 m (26, 901 feet). From the true summit there is an incredible view of Everest and Makalu.
Other Possibilities
Most of the climbing is on ice and snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a few very short sections of steeper rock and ice. The highest technical section is 6m high and safely climbed with fixed ropes. This makes it a perfect for ski and snowboard descent. The first American ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak was on October 1, 2002, when Montana ski mountaineer Kristoffer Erickson reached the summit of Cho Oyu and then skied down.
Speed climbing is another option on Cho Oyu. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
Is Spring Climbing Better Then Autumn?
On Cho Oyu it doesn’t matter. Each season has is slightly different and has different attractions but for Cho Oyu being lower then Everest the reliability odds of good weather are roughly even.
Spring starts cold and then warms up so acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Cho Oyu because of high objective avalanche danger on its 50deg slopes past C3. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.
Testimonials
“Outstanding & complete service to support your dreams!”
Snowy Horizon has provided an outstanding and complete service on my first 8000 Himalaya climb to Cho Oyu (summitted 1 Oct). This was my first solo expedition ever and I was a bit apprehensive, but Rishi and the Team have truly taken care of all aspects of my trip, so I could fully focus on the climbing. Starting with a very personal airport welcome, with great lodging in Thamel, Kathmandu, good transport and most importantly an experienced Sherpa support from Pema, who was an ........Read More
Cho_Oyu Climbing Map
Itinerary Details Of Cho-Oyu Expedition Autumn 2013
SEP01/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer
SEP2-3/Day 2-3: Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities
SEP04/Day 04: Early morning departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m); border formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m); overnight in hotel
SEP05/Day 05: Two hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel
SEP06/Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel
SEP07/Day 07: Four hours drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m); overnight in hotel
SEP08/Day 08: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel
SEP09/Day 09: After breakfast four hours drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5200m); camp overnight
SEP10-11/10-11:Rest and acclimatization at Chinese Base Camp; Provision of Yaks and preparation for Advance Base Camp (ABC) trek
SEP12/Day 12: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5300m) along the 4x4 track
SEP13/Day 13: Trek from Middle Camp to the ABC (5700m) of Cho Oyu
SEP14-OCT08/Day14-38: Climbing Period – Summit Cho Oyu (8201m)
OCT09/Day 39: Dismantling ABC; trek to Middle Camp; drive to Tingri; overnight in hotel
OCT10/Day 40: Six hours drive from Tingri to Zhangmu; overnight in hotel
OCT11/Day 41: Early morning drive to the border at Kodari; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu
OCT12/Day 42: Leisure day in Kathmandu(Contingency day)
OCT13/Day 43: Leisure day, sightseeing in Kathmandu (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath); Fairwell-Celebration dinner
OCT14/Day 44: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities
Price For the Trip:
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The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
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Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip
-
The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
-
Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip
Full Board Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along Northwest ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- 2 Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3 ·
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- Required Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during Climbing Period Per peron
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Full Board Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
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Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides (When you summated you have to pay) as per Mountaineering Association rules.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Base Camp Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff in Chinese Base camp and advance Base camp;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along Northwest ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for climbing crew at base camp and chinese Base Camp.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3
- Personal climbing gears;
- Climbing Guide(s)
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.
Rental Price List
| Item | Rental Cost US$ | Purchase Cost US$ |
|---|---|---|
| Expedition Tent | US$ 150.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Rucksack (small) | US$ 50.00 | US$ 150.00 |
| Rucksack (large) | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Gas Stove | US$ 25.00 | US$ 100.00 |
| Oxygen bottle | - | US$ 500.00 |
| Oxygen mask + Regulator | US$ 250 (second Hend) | US$ 900.00 |
| Sleeping bag | US$ 100.00 | US$ 400.00 |
| Down Jacket | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| High Camp Goose Down Jacket | US$ 200.00 | US$ 500.00 |
