Govt. Regd. No: 65323/066/067
24 Hours Service: +977-9851031006
Click here go to Online Support My status
You are here » Home » Tibet » Mountain Expedition » Fixed Departure Expedition » Cho_oyu Expedition Spring 2015

Cho-Oyu Expedition (8,201M)- Spring 2015

Cho Oyu Expedition peak is the sixth highest mountain in the world at 8201m (26,901ft). The peak is considered as the easiest 8000m peak to climb via its Northwest Ridge, with no technical climbing, big snowfields, and little objective danger. It is easily accessed by 4-wheel-drive vehicle from Tingri, often guided, and is the first 8,000-meter peak for most climbers. It is located 30km west of Mt Everest and straddles the border between Nepal and Tibet. The peak can be climbed from both Nepalese side up on south face and north-east ridge routes and Tibetan side along the Northwest ridge route with North approach being an easier and a standard route, which was also the route of the first summit. The mountain is climbable during both spring and autumn seasons.

Nepal or South side of Cho Oyu has an impressive 3000m Southwest face and two Northeast and Southwest ridges containing technical routes. The approach to South side Base Camp is from Lukla through scenic Khumbu region.

Approaches to ABC

From South (Nepal): The approached on its south side is from Thame valley of the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Lungsampa Glacier. It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Dole (4110m), Machherma (4470m), Gokyo (4790m), Gyazumba Tsho Lake (4990m) to Cho Oyu South Base Camp (5215m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
From North (Tibet): From the north, the peak is approached from the Tingri Plain, to the Palung Glacier that lies below the peak's north face, and the Gyabrag Glacier that surrounds the Northwest face. Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam(3700m). From Tingri typically expeditions take a day rest at Chinese Base Camp (5000m), Middle Camp (5300m) before arriving at Cho Oyu North Advanced Base Camp (5700m). It takes typically 10 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes

Cho Oyu has three main ridges: the Northwest, the Northeast, and the Southwest and impressive Southwest face rising 3000m from the ABC.
South Side: South side of Cho Oyu is a great climbing playground for high altitude climbers because of the cool face relatively easily accessible for skilled climbers.
1994 First solo ascent via the South West face by Yasushi Yamanoi.
On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.
North Side:The Northwest Ridge also known as the Tichy Route is a normal route for commercial operators and for first time climbers of 8000m peak. It doesn’t require technical climbing skills as it is a less then 50deg snow-field with one very short section of yellow band rock with fixed lines. The route begins from the Gyabrag Glacier at the base of Peak 6395 and the location of the Advanced base camp (ABC) at 5700 m (18,700').
The route skirts first and then ascends the scree and firn on the west side of the slope leading to Camp 1 at 6400 m (21,000') at the bottom of the Northwest ridge proper of Cho Oyu. Camp 1 location is very nice as it is well sheltered from the weather by the ridge itself and the rocks below the base of the Northwest ridge.
From Camp 1 the route follows the Northwest ridge, and then opens out onto the Northwest face of the upper mountain. About halfway between Camp 1 and Camp 2 there is a steepers 30-50m section consisting of moderate ice cliff. Most of the route between Camp 1 and 2 is always fixed with rope because there are hundreds of unskilled mountaineers with huge entourage of climbing sherpas provided by commercial operators.
Camp 2 is located at about 7200 m (23,500'). Some expeditions fix an intermediate temporary camp between C1 and C2, just below the ice cliff on the Northwest ridge at about 6600 m (21,600'), especially during the first or second acclimatization trip.
Most of operators fix a high camp at about 7450 m (24,500') just below yellow bands to maximize the chance of success on summit day but occasional parties do the summit from C2. Usually the yellow bands are fixed with rope, which requires some strenuous climbing. Above this, more rocky bands there is a steep summit ridge snowfield. Expeditions usually continue up this steep snowfield to the crest of the Northwest Ridge and the false summit. From here climbers cross a broad plateau, with a very small rise to the true summit of 8201 m (26, 901 feet). From the true summit there is an incredible view of Everest and Makalu.

Other Possibilities

Most of the climbing is on ice and snow slopes up to 50 degrees with a few very short sections of steeper rock and ice. The highest technical section is 6m high and safely climbed with fixed ropes. This makes it a perfect for ski and snowboard descent. The first American ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak was on October 1, 2002, when Montana ski mountaineer Kristoffer Erickson reached the summit of Cho Oyu and then skied down.
Speed climbing is another option on Cho Oyu. On October 2, 2006, Slovenian Pavel Kozjek speed-climbed a new route on the Southwest Face in a single solo ascent from advanced base camp. The crux was a vertical icefall, which was bypassed with 5.6 rock climbing. He reached the summit in 14 hours.

Is Spring Climbing Better Then Autumn?

On Cho Oyu it doesn’t matter. Each season has is slightly different and has different attractions but for Cho Oyu being lower then Everest the reliability odds of good weather are roughly even.
Spring starts cold and then warms up so acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Cho Oyu because of high objective avalanche danger on its 50deg slopes past C3. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.

 

Testimonials

“Outstanding & complete service to support your dreams!”

Cho_oyu Climibng Lukash ImageSnowy Horizon has provided an outstanding and complete service on my first 8000 Himalaya climb to Cho Oyu (summitted 1 Oct). This was my first solo expedition ever and I was a bit apprehensive, but Rishi and the Team have truly taken care of all aspects of my trip, so I could fully focus on the climbing. Starting with a very personal airport welcome, with great lodging in Thamel, Kathmandu, good transport and most importantly an experienced Sherpa support from Pema, who was an ........Read More

Cho_Oyu Climbing Map

Enlarge Map

Cho-Oyu Expedition Spring 2015 - Fixed Departure Itinerary

Apr 07/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel (1350m)

Apr 08-10/Day2-4: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.

Apr 11/Day 05: Early in the morning drive from Kathmandu to kodari Border (720m) after immigration formalities you may cross border and then Drive to Zhangmu(1600m), over night in Hotel.

Apr 12/Day 06: Drive from Zhangmu to Naylam(3700m) which takes two hours drive by land coursers jeep over night in Hotel.

Apr 13/Day 07: Rest Day in Naylam for Acclimatization

Apr 14/Day 08: Drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m) which takes about four hours over night in hotel.

Apr 15/Day 09: Rest Day at Tingri for Acclimatization

Apr 16/Day 10: After breakfast drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp(5000m) which takes about four hours drive. Overnight in Camp.

Apr17-18/Day11-12: Rest and acclimatization in Chinese Base Camp (5200m).to prepare and arrange yaks to go to Advance base camp.

Apr 19/Day 13: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5300m) which takes about five hours. Overnight in Camp.

Apr 20/Day 14: Trek from Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Cho-Oyu(5700m.),Which takes about four hours. Prepare camp overnight in Camp

Apr 21- May 15/Day15-39: Climbing Period (summit Period of Mt Cho Oyu 8201m)

 

May 16/Day 40: Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) and trek to Middle camp (5300m) and then drive to Tingri(4300m)

May 17/Day 41: Drive from Tingri to Zhanmu(1600m) which takes about six hours over night in hotel.

May 18/Day 42: Early in the morning Drive from Zhanmu to Kodari Border and after immigration formalities from china side, we may collect Nepal visa from immigration office and then drive to Kathmandu transfer to hotel.

May 19/Day 43: Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

May 20/Day 44: Final departure, or alternative Join other activities

 

Note:

  • the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
  • the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
  • For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
  • The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price

  • Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip

Full Board Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
  • Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
  • Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
  • Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
  • Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along Northwest ridge route;
  • All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
  • Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
  • Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
  • Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • 2 Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
  • We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance.
  • Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3 ·
  • High altitude food for sherpa and member
  • All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • Required Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during Climbing Period Per peron
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  • Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
  • Our service Charges

Full Board Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
  • Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides (When you summated you have to pay) as per Mountaineering Association rules.

  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION

Base Camp Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
  • Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
  • Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff in Chinese Base camp and advance Base camp;
  • Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
  • Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along Northwest ridge route;
  • All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
  • Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
  • Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
  • Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for climbing crew at base camp and chinese Base Camp.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
  • Our service Charges

Base Camp Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
  • Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Climbing Guide(s)
  • Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
  • Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp
  • High altitude food for sherpa and member
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.

Rental Price List

Item Rental Cost US$ Purchase Cost US$
Expedition Tent US$ 150.00 US$ 300.00
Rucksack (small) US$ 50.00 US$ 150.00
Rucksack (large) US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
Gas Stove US$ 25.00 US$ 100.00
Oxygen bottle - US$ 500.00
Oxygen mask + Regulator US$ 250 (second Hend) US$ 900.00
Sleeping bag US$ 100.00 US$ 400.00
Down Jacket US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket US$ 200.00 US$ 500.00

 

Climbing Sherpa Fee US$ 5,200 (if required by client for base camp service user)