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Everest Expedition, North ( 8,848m / 29,029ft)

  • Overview
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Facts of the Trip

Highest access: 8,848m (29,029ft)

Duration: 60 (typically) Days

Location: Nepal/Tibet border

Grade: Challenging

Himalayan sights: Shishapangma, Cho-Oyu, Lhakpa-re, Lhotse

Accommodation: Five star hotel in Kathmandu

Transportation: Car, Jeep

Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group if more we splits group.

Best season: spring Season

Major Activity: trekking/climbing

Include Activity: Visit tibeten culture

Country: Tibet, China

Airport: Kathmandu Airport

Departure From: Kathmandu Intl Airport

Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during trekking and climbing

Culture: Tibeten Culture

First Ascent: Edmund Hillary (NZ), Tenzing Norgay (Nepal), May 29, 1953

Mode of Travel: Hotel/Guest house on route, Camping during Climbing period

Climbing route: Northface

Co-ordinates: 27°59'17'' N / 86°55'31'' E

Mt. Everest is accessible for climbing from both south and north sides. South side is Nepal side where as North side lies in Tibet. The climbing history of this world’s highest peak named “Sagaramatha” in Nepali and “Chomolungma” in Tibet was on sight of the world wide people since the first Trigonometry Survey in 1840s. However the climbing history has been a scandal since 1954 when Sir. Edmund Hilary with the great Nepalese climber Mr. Tenjing Norge Sherpa had approached to the summit of 8848m.

Climbing Mt. Everest from North (Tibet) is said to be much easier that it is from South (Nepal). It is less technical as well as with no icefall on its route as it is in south side. Hence people who are less trained for technical climbing but have time and wealth with willingness of mountaineering will choose this Mt. Everest Expedition from its North which is obviously cheaper for permit and operation both. The North ridge of Mt. Everest is a long climb to approach to the summit however from the Hilary steps the climbing part is similar for both the sides.

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition always offers for the mountain lovers to climb these spectacular Everest Climbing facilities in both spring and autumn season of every year and welcome the dream and desires of our valued clients. The customized, well organized, well equipped and well trained Snowy Horizon Expedition management team is always prepared to fulfill the expectations of the mountaineers in their most awaited climbing mission and summit dream. We have mission, we have vision, we have plan and we have project for all Everest dreamers. Just click us and send an email.

Approaches to ABC

From North (Tibet): North Base Camp is approached from the Tingri Plain through Rongbuk (4880m), the location of famous Buddhist monastery. Two day trek to Everest North Base Camp (6400m) begins at the Chinese Base Camp (5200m) with intermediate acclimatization in Middle Camp (5700m). Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam (3700m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes North Side

The north side of Everest in Tibet, northeast ridge route, begins from with the trek to the Rongbuk Glacier accessible from Tingri by jeep to Chinese Base camp (5,180m), which is located on a gravel plain just below the glacier.

There is an intermediate Middle Camp before reaching the Advance Base Camp. To reach Middle Camp climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse (6,100 m).

The Advanced Base Camp (6500m) is situated below the North Col and there are 3 camps above before final summit push. The route is in a way more technical because there is more exposed rock and the weather is much more severe then on Nepalese side as it is exposed to winds all the time.

Camp 1 is located on the North Col, where climbers face long and monotonous ascend of the glacier to the foot of the Col. Fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col (7,010m). From the North Col, there is ascending along the rocky north ridge to Camp 2 (7,775m).

From Camp 2 the route crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp 3 (8,230m). Camp 3 the last camp from where the final summit push is staged.

There are three famous Steps after camp 3. There is a treacherous traverse from the base of the First Step (8,500 m) to the crux of the climb, the Second Step (8,580 m). This includes a climbing aid called the "Chinese ladder", a metal ladder placed semi-permanently in 1975 by a party of Chinese climbers and used by virtually all climbers on the route. The Third Step is inconsequential (8,690 m) followed by a snow slope of 50 degrees and the final summit ridge to the summit pyramid.

Our Everest Climbing Services

In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.

In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpa have an extensive experience of multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.

Full Board: For our full board climbers we set up intermediate facility at camp 2 (6750m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2.

We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2 and Base Camp from Camp 3, 4 and the climbing route.

01 Sep 01/ Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport transfer to hotel (1350m).

Sep02-03/ Day 02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment briefing.

04 Sep/ Day 04: Early morning drive from Kathmandu to Kodari Border (720m) after immigration formalities cross the border and drive Zhangmu (1600m), over night in Hotel full board service

05 Sep/ Day 05:Drive from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m) two hours by land courser jeep; over night in Hotel.

06 Sep/ Day 06: Rest day in Naylam for acclimatization.

07Sep/ Day 07: Drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m) four hours, over night in hotel.

08 Sep/ Day 08: Rest Day at Tingri for acclimatization.

09 Sep/ Day 09: After breakfast drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp (5200m) four hours; Camp.

10-12 Sep/ Day 10-12: Rest and acclimatization in Chinese Base Camp (5200m). To prepare and arrange yaks to go to Advance Base Camp.

13 Sep/ Day 13: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5700m) about five hours; overnight in Camp.

14 Sep/ Day 14: Trek to Advance Base Camp of Everest (6400m) Prepare camp overnight camping.

15 Sep – 30 Oct/ Day 15-60: Climbing Period (summit Period of Mt. Everest 8848m).

31 Oct/ Day 61: Clean Base Camp and return trek back to Chinese Base Camp (5200m).

01 Nov/ Day 62: Clean Chinese Base Camp then drive to Tingri(4200m) four hours; overnight Hotel.

02 Nov/ Day 63: Drive from Tingri to Zhangmu (1600m) about six hours; over night in hotel.

03 Nov/ Day 64: Early morning drive from Zhangmu to Kodari Border, immigration formalities, collect Nepal visa and then drive to Kathmandu; transfer to hotel.

04 Nov/ Day 65: Rest and leisure day and shopping in Kathmandu.

05 Nov/ Day 66: Full day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (Eg: Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath) and domestic cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

06 Nov/ Day 67: Final departure or alternative Join other activities.

08 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel(1350m)

09-10April/Day2-3: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.

11 April/Day 04: Early in the morning drive from Kathmandu to kodari Border (720m) after immigration formalities you may cross border and then Drive Zhangmu(1600m), over night in Hotel.

12 April/Day 05: Drive from Zhangmu to Naylam(3700m) which takes two hours drive by land coursers jeep over night in Hotel.

13 April/Day 06: Rest Day in Naylam for Acclimatization

14 April/Day 07: Drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m) which takes about four hours over night in hotel.

15 April/Day 08: Rest Day at Tingri for Acclimatization

16 April/Day 09: After break fast drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp(5200m) which takes about four hours drive.

17April/Day 10-12: Rest and acclimatization in Chinese Base Camp (5200m). to prepare and arrange yaks to go to Advance base camp.

19 April/Day 13: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5700m) which takes about five hours. over night in Camp.

20 April/Day 14: Trek from Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest (6400m.) Prepare camp overnight in Camp

21May/Day 15-55: Climbing Period (summit Period of Mt. Everest 8848m)

01 June/Day 56: Preparation to returning(Clean Base Camp) and trek to Chinese base camp(5200m)

02 June/Day 57: Clean Chinese Base Camp then Drive from Chinese Base Camp to Nylam(3700m) which takes about six hours over night in hotel.

03 June/Day 58: Early in the morning Drive from Nylam to Kodari Border and after immigration formalities from china side, we may collect Nepal visa from Nepal side and then drive to Kathmandu transfer to hotel.

04 June/Day 59: Free day at kathmandu and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

05 June/Day 60: Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities

Note:

  • the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
  • the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
  • For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?

Expedition Cost:

  •  Negotiable and Depends on Group Size.

  •  Please Contact at info@trekkingagencynepal.com

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  • Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Mt. Everest climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200 per person).
  • Tibetan official Liaison officer for Mt. Everest Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam-Tingri -Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for sharing base camp staffs.
  • Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Climbing guide; Oxygen and mask-regulator; ice fall charges and tent for camp 1, 2, 3, 4.
  • Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp.
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and member.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  • Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Mt. Everest climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$7500 per person).
  • Tibetan official Liaison officer for Mt. Everest Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam-Tingri -Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • 1:1 experienced climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staffs sharing with team.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • 5 Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (Optional).
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for private Sherpa and sharing base camp staffs.
  • Ice falls charges and all tent for camp 1, 2, 3,4 sharing with private Sherpa
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and climbing member.
  • Per person 60kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 50kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Ice fall garbage deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.
1850s British Survey of India

The Great Trigonometric Survey of India, part of the British Survey of India which began in 1803, made distance measurements of many high Himalayan peaks in the 1850s including those in the Mount Everest region. The Survey established the first published height of Everest, then known as Peak XV, at 29,002 ft (8,840 m). In 1865, Everest was given its official English name.

Early Exploration of Everest

The northern approach to the mountain was explored by George Mallory on the first expedition in 1921. With Mallory leading (and thus becoming the first European to set foot on Everest's flanks) they climbed the North Col (7,007m).
The British returned for a 1922 expedition. George Finch climbed using oxygen for the first time. He ascended at a remarkable speed of 290m/hour, and reached an altitude of 8,320m, the first time a human climbed higher than 8,000m.
On 8 June 1924 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made an attempt on the summit via the North Col/North Ridge/Northeast Ridge route from which they never returned.The Swiss expedition of 1952, led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant, was granted permission to attempt a climb from Nepal. The expedition established a route through the Khumbu ice fall and ascended to the South Col at an elevation of 7,986m.

1953 First Successful Ascent by Tenzing and Hillary

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. The first pair (Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans) came within 100 m (300 feet) of the summit on 26 May 1953, but turned back after becoming exhausted.
Two days later, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepali sherpa climber. They reached the summit at 11:30 a.m. local time on 29 May 1953 via the South Col Route.

First Ascent without supplemental oxygen and first solo ascent

On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) made the first ascent without supplemental oxygen, using the southeast ridge route. On 20 August 1980, Messner reached the summit of the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6,500 metres

1980 First Winter Ascent

In 1980, a team from Poland led by Andrzej Zawada, Leszek Cichy, and Krzysztof Wielicki became the first to reach the summit during the winter season.

2005 Helicopter landing

On 14 May 2005, pilot Didier Delsalle of France landed a Eurocopter AS 350 B3 helicopter on the summit of Mount Everest (without any witness) and took off after about four minutes. (His rotors were continually engaged, constituting a "hover landing", and avoiding the risks of relying on the snow to support the aircraft.) He thereby set rotorcraft world records, for highest of both landing (de facto) and take-off (formally). Delsalle had also performed, two days earlier, a take-off from the South Col; some press reports suggested that the report of the summit landing was a misunderstanding of a South Col landing.

An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 17 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Summit bids for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 45 to 60 days from base camp. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal and the Tibet mountaineering association in Tibet.

There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permits for these mountains. Any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks and general skills and knowledge with ice and rock climbing. Experience and knowledge of ascent and decent on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axe and crampons are also a plus. Attempting these types of peaks also requires excellent physical fitness and good health.

Snowy Horizon Treks and Expeditions operate 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons. Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking with snow climbing and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000M climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000m expedition. Previous 6000m or 7000m experience is fully support and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this

Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding.

Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM and have many years of experience. These workers are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.

To climb peaks of this altitude, fitness is very important, not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for the clients overall safety and enjoyment. Excellent physical fitness is required. Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.

A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.

Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will be waiting for you at the airport. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter supported medical transportation and rescue. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal and more specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.

There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.

Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation.

Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow persons under 18 years of age to climb 8,000 meter peaks.

On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be provided by the lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals and above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa.

Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some options are for the clients to use a Satellite communication device like a Delorme, or a satellite phone.

At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable through appropriate trekking pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. Sunburn can also be an issue at altitude, so the use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important.

Simply click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. . If you have any questions, please contact Snowy horizon treks at info@trekkingagencynepal.com .

Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment, food, climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use Yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own and open the route.

We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount of calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and verity of juice. At camp one, it may be possible to supply food from base camp.

The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.

All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalaya expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.

Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa and a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.

We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tiber border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri, on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.

Yes, the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

In Kathmandu we provide the requested category of hotel accommodation which is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic, but due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.

Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges.

Snowy horizon will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.

Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at  info@trekkingagencynepal.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot.  In 8000m expedition we advice to use One sport  millet or La-sportiva   climbing boots,  personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

There are several options for acclimation for Cho Oyu. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is a good option. Some of our clients take advantage of our climbs of Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.

The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. SNOWY HORIZON maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit, trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower and in Nepal manpower and helicopters rescue. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions, which include back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency. In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. Such an evacuation is considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster and the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.

Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health.  Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help to carry your day pack or change a pace, take an extra day of rest or descend if necessary.
Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication.  Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination.  Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter.  Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

An expedition on Cho Oyu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects.  Excellent physical condition is a must.   Many of our clients for Cho Oyu expeditions are cyclist, recreational runners and fitness enthusiast.   Some of these clients ride 50 to 100 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons.  If clients are participating in these are similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition.  This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip.  This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip.   To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition. 
There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period.  This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction.   The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.

Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page.  Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group.  Simply click on BOOK NOW/INQUIRE FORM button and give us required details.   In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip.  We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details.  An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence.  The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival. 
For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/terms_conditions.php
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/how_to_book_trek_in_nepal.php

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation.  Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1.  Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate.  Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp. 

Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food.  We will then provide a similar acclimatization.  If  required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one.  During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions.  If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit.  At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success or give up the trip after first trying to summit with camp one, two and three experience and acclimatize.

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