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Everest Expedition, South (8,848m/29,029ft)

  • Overview
  • Spring Itinerary
  • Cost Include/Exclude
  • History
  • FAQs
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Facts of the Trip

Highest access: 8,848m (29,029ft)

Duration: 63 (typically) Days

Location: Nepal/Tibet border

Grade: Challenging

Himalayan sights: Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam,Cho-Oyu

Accommodation: Three star to five star as request

Transportation: Car, Flight

Group Size: 01-10 persons per Group if more we splits group.

Best season: Spring Season (April, May)

Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering

Include Activity: Island peak acclimatization

Country: Nepal

Airport: Kathmandu Airport

Departure From: Kathmandu Intl Airport

Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D during trekking and climbing

Culture: Sherpa and Tamang

First Ascent: May 29,1953 Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgey Sherpa

Mode of Travel: Tea House/Camping

Climbing route: South east ridge (Normal route)

Co-ordinates: 27°59'17'' N / 86°55'31'' E

Mountaineers always have a dream to approach to the World’s highest land-peak by their own physical effort. The land’s highest point is nowhere than the summit of Mt. Everest. Hence it is known as the roof of this entire world. This challenging expedition peak towering in Nepal lies in the border of Nepal and China (Tibet) at North and mid-east. The elevation of 8848m is only the highest point you can reach after nearly two months experiment and exercise for rock and snow climbing in Khumbu region and specially Khumbu Icefall area. In Nepalese language we call it “Sagaramatha” means “the head over the sky” and Tibetan used to call it “Chomolungma” which straddle the border of two Nations Nepal and China. During the Great Trigonometric Survey of British India Government the mountain was first measured on 1856 officially and named as XV the elevation 8840m. Hence even that pre-history period with a simple technology and the distance from the mountain, the height was determined with really phenomenal accuracy and only 8m off from current value of 8848m.

The British surveyor Sir George Everest was chosen for honoring the name of this mountain peak as Mt. Everest. During the time of survey Tibet and Nepal both the countries were closed for foreigners to travel or enter and thus the local name “Chomolungma” was not famous so the surveyor has named it as Mt. Everest. The Nepalese name was endorsed by our great poet Laxmi Prasad Devkota afterwards during 1940s.

Since Mt. Everest becoming a dream to most of the mountaineers the royalty and operational cost goes higher and seems to be applicable for wealthy tourists or the branded climbers who can be sponsored for professional advertisement of the producers of worldwide materials. Just to click their branded logo or the flag to the summit of Mt. Everest could the millions of benefit for their business strategy. Wealthy and inexperienced tourists were being taken to the summit for a substantial fee by professional mountain guides with team of climbing Sherpa guide in the past years. The brave heart with no legs and hands Mr. Sudarsan Gautam a Nepalese fellow from Canada had successfully approached to the summit of Mt. Everest with the Snowy Horizon Assistance in spring 2013. He has also worked as an actor in Nepalese film industries afterwards.

Now the only royalty for this stunning mountain has brought down to US$ 11000 per person as it was US$ 25000 in the past. The Chinese royalty is lower than Nepalese however the climb from Nepal via Khumbu icefall is extremely spectacular and sheltered from winds up to camp 4 at South Col making climbing much easier and much more pleasant. However the years 2014 and 2015 were not favorable for climbing Mt. Everest. All the Mt. Everest Climbing of these two years has been cancelled due to unforeseen natural disasters. No one had officially seen the summit of Mt. Everest since spring 2013. Hence many of the climbers have lost their fund and energy and have not yet been able to fulfill their dream. Thus Snowy Horizon Himalayas management could be your best choice for making your dream comes true in spring 2016 and 2017.

Approaches to ABC

From South (Nepal): The approached on its south side is through the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4900m). It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Tengaboche (36600m), Pheriche (4270m), Lobuche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) to Everest South Base Camp (5364m). It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

From North (Tibet): North Base Camp is approached from the Tingri Plain through Rongbuk (4880m), the location of famous Buddhist monastery. Two day trek to Everest North Base Camp (6400m) begins at the Chinese Base Camp (5200m) with intermediate acclimatization in Middle Camp (5700m). Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam (3700m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.

Climbing Routes South Side

South route is technically a trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall, apart of few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather.
The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpa set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climb of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.

Camp 1 (6065m) is located on the top of Khumbu ice fall; it is a desolate and exposed place mainly used as rest and transition location on the way to camp 2 (6750m). The glacier between camp 1 and 2 flattens but there are still large crevasses close to camp 1, which are also fixed with ladders.

Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views on Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period with tents for individual climbers, the kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climb and the final summit attempt.

Camp 3 (7100m) is located on small ledge on the Lhotse wall. One has to cross the glacier to the right side before 40deg 600m climb on the compact snow field. The route is safe with couple of short less then 3m ice cliffs, which climbing sherpas set up with fixed ropes.

Camp 4 (7920m) located at South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: Yellow Bands, interlayered marble, phyllite and semischist rocks and Geneva Spur, a anvil shaped rib of black rocks; They are again set-up with fixed ropes.

This is when the climb starts, the last section of the southwest ridge. It is steep mostly on the snow with some rock section at the Balconies, nice resting platform. The entire route is setup with fixed ropes, which is crucial for safety of all climbers, who are all affected by altitude with low energy and impaired judgement due to oxygen deprivation in the brain and muscle tissue.

From the south summit there is knife edge southeast ridge with dangerous overhanging cornices; the most exposed section of the climb between 3050m Kangshung face and southwest face and Hillary step at the end, a series of imposing rock steps often bypassed on deep the snow, a serious avalanche danger

Our Everest Climbing Services

In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.

In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.

In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.

Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Full Board: For our full board climbers we set up intermediate facility at camp 2 (6750m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2.

We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2 and Base Camp from Camp 3, 4 and the climbing route.

30 March: Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to hotel (BB).

31 March-01 Apr: Day 02-03:
Preparation, briefings, shopping and permits formalities (BB).

02 April: Day 04: Flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; Trek (4hrs) to Phakding (2652m); (BLD) Lodge.

03 April: Day 05: Trek (6hrs) to Namche Bazaar (3440m); (BLD) Lodge.

04 April: Day 06: Rest and acclimatization; hike to Everest View Hotel (3800m)-Namche; (BLD) Lodge.

 05 April: Day 07: Trek (5hrs) to Tyangboche (3850m); visit Buddhist monastery; (BLD) Lodge.

06 April: Day 08: Trek (5hrs) to Dingboche (4350m); (BLD) Lodge.

07 April: Day 09: Trek (4hrs) to Lobuche (5018m); (BLD) Lodge.

08 April: Day 10: Rest for acclimatization at Lobuche (BLD).

09 April: Day 11: Trek (3hrs) to Gorakshep (5170m); (BLD) Lodge.

10 April: Day 12: Trek (2hrs) from Gorakshep to Base camp (5200m), Camping (BLD).

11 April-26 May: Day 13-58:
Climbing period Summit Everest (8,848m).

27 May: Day 59: Trek (4hrs) to Dingboche (4260m); (BLD) Lodge.

28 May: Day 60: Trek (4hrs) from to Tengboche (3860m); (BLD) Lodge.

29 May: Day 61: Trek (4hrs) to Namche Bazaar (3440m); (BLD) Lodge.

30 May: Day 62: Trek (7hrs) to Lukla (2840m); (BLD) Lodge.

31May: Day 63: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu; hotel transfer BB).

01June: Day 64: Leisure and contingency day (D-Briefing).

02 June: Day 65: Transfer to the airport for final departure.

Expedition Cost:

  •  Negotiable and Depends on Group Size.

  •  Please Contact at info@trekkingagencynepal.com

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfers with Snowy Horizon’s assistance in airports.
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan in 4/5 Star Hotel category.
  • Flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu to the climbing member and his guide.
  • All camping equipments like camp furniture (table, chairs), kitchenware, kitchen, dining, guest, shower and toilet tents in Advance Base Camp.
  • Three meals a day (BLD-tea-coffee) and twin sharing teahouse accommodation during trek, freshly cooked 3 meals, tea or coffee by Snowy professional cook in Base Camp.
  • Baggage allowance for trekking up and down is 40kg: 30kg ratio per person.
  • Everest National Park entry fee (Sagarmatha National Park).
  • Expedition royalty and climbing permit for climbing Mt. Everest in Spring.
  • Wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for staffs.
  • Required base camp food for climbing member and all involved staffs.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger in Base Camp.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Free assistance service for cargo and duty clearance.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
  • Climbing Sherpa Guide, high altitude food and tents above ABC (Camp: 1-2-3-4).
  • Ropes, any other climbing gears and services above ABC (Camp:1-2-3-4)
  • Items of personal nature and laundry expenses.
  • Expenses of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone and internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gears.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses for climbers.
  • Medical and travel Insurance with helicopter search and rescue.
  • Special Permits for walkie-talkies & filming if special camera.
  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not mentioned in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section.

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure with Snowy Horizon’s assistance in airports.
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan in 5/4 Star category.
  • 1:1 Experienced private climbing Sherpa guide during trek and climb (Everest Summiteers).
  • Flight tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu to the climbing member and his guide.
  • All camping equipments like camp furniture (table, chairs), kitchenware, kitchen, dining, guest, shower and toilet tents in Advance Base Camp.
  • Three meals a day (BLD-tea-coffee) and twin sharing teahouse accommodation during trek, freshly cooked 3 meals, tea or coffee by Snowy professional cook in Base Camp.
  • Baggage allowance for trekking up and down is 60kg: 40kg ratio per person.
  • Everest National Park entry fee (Sagarmatha National Park)
  • Expedition royalty and climbing permit for climbing Mt. Everest in spring.
  • Wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for Sherpa guide and other staffs.
  • Required base camp and high altitude food for climbing member and all involved staffs.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  • Emergency oxygen mask and regulator upon requirement of guest with reliable charge.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • 6 Oxygen Bottles (4L) for Climbers and 3 for Sherpa with mask and regulators.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger in Base Camp.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2, 3 and 4; Ice fall charges.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Free assistance service for cargo and duty clearance.
  • Our service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner).
  • Items of personal nature and laundry expenses.
  • Expenses of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phone and internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees or trekking gears.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical and travel Insurance with helicopter search and rescue for climber.
  • Summit bonus for the Sherpa after approaching to the summit. (Minimum US$ 1000.00)
  • Special Permits for walkie-talkies & filming if special camera.
  • All personal climbing gears.
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not mentioned in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” section
1850s British Survey of India

The Great Trigonometric Survey of India, part of the British Survey of India which began in 1803, made distance measurements of many high Himalayan peaks in the 1850s including those in the Mount Everest region. The Survey established the first published height of Everest, then known as Peak XV, at 29,002 ft (8,840 m). In 1865, Everest was given its official English name.

Early Exploration of Everest

The northern approach to the mountain was explored by George Mallory on the first expedition in 1921. With Mallory leading (and thus becoming the first European to set foot on Everest's flanks) they climbed the North Col (7,007m).
The British returned for a 1922 expedition. George Finch climbed using oxygen for the first time. He ascended at a remarkable speed of 290m/hour, and reached an altitude of 8,320m, the first time a human climbed higher than 8,000m.
On 8 June 1924 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made an attempt on the summit via the North Col/North Ridge/Northeast Ridge route from which they never returned.The Swiss expedition of 1952, led by Edouard Wyss-Dunant, was granted permission to attempt a climb from Nepal. The expedition established a route through the Khumbu ice fall and ascended to the South Col at an elevation of 7,986m.

1953 First Successful Ascent by Tenzing and Hillary

In 1953, a ninth British expedition, led by John Hunt, returned to Nepal. The first pair (Tom Bourdillon and Charles Evans) came within 100 m (300 feet) of the summit on 26 May 1953, but turned back after becoming exhausted.
Two days later, the expedition made its second and final assault on the summit with the New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepali sherpa climber. They reached the summit at 11:30 a.m. local time on 29 May 1953 via the South Col Route.

First Ascent without supplemental oxygen and first solo ascent

On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner (Italy) and Peter Habeler (Austria) made the first ascent without supplemental oxygen, using the southeast ridge route. On 20 August 1980, Messner reached the summit of the mountain solo for the first time, without supplementary oxygen or support, on the more difficult Northwest route via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6,500 metres

1980 First Winter Ascent

In 1980, a team from Poland led by Andrzej Zawada, Leszek Cichy, and Krzysztof Wielicki became the first to reach the summit during the winter season.

2005 Helicopter landing

On 14 May 2005, pilot Didier Delsalle of France landed a Eurocopter AS 350 B3 helicopter on the summit of Mount Everest (without any witness) and took off after about four minutes. (His rotors were continually engaged, constituting a "hover landing", and avoiding the risks of relying on the snow to support the aircraft.) He thereby set rotorcraft world records, for highest of both landing (de facto) and take-off (formally). Delsalle had also performed, two days earlier, a take-off from the South Col; some press reports suggested that the report of the summit landing was a misunderstanding of a South Col landing.

An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 17 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Summit bids for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 45 to 60 days from base camp. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal and the Tibet mountaineering association in Tibet.

There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permits for these mountains. Any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks and general skills and knowledge with ice and rock climbing. Experience and knowledge of ascent and decent on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axe and crampons are also a plus. Attempting these types of peaks also requires excellent physical fitness and good health.

Snowy Horizon Treks and Expeditions operate 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons. Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking with snow climbing and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000M climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000m expedition. Previous 6000m or 7000m experience is fully support and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this

Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding.

Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM and have many years of experience. These workers are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.

To climb peaks of this altitude, fitness is very important, not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for the clients overall safety and enjoyment. Excellent physical fitness is required. Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.

A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.

Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will be waiting for you at the airport. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter supported medical transportation and rescue. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal and more specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.

There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.

Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation.

Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow persons under 18 years of age to climb 8,000 meter peaks.

On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be provided by the lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals and above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa.

Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some options are for the clients to use a Satellite communication device like a Delorme, or a satellite phone.

At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable through appropriate trekking pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. Sunburn can also be an issue at altitude, so the use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important.

Simply click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. . If you have any questions, please contact Snowy horizon treks at info@trekkingagencynepal.com .

Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment, food, climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use Yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own and open the route.

We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount of calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and verity of juice. At camp one, it may be possible to supply food from base camp.

The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.

All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalaya expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.

Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa and a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.

We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tiber border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri, on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.

Yes, the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

In Kathmandu we provide the requested category of hotel accommodation which is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic, but due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.

Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges.

Snowy horizon will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.

Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at  info@trekkingagencynepal.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot.  In 8000m expedition we advice to use One sport  millet or La-sportiva   climbing boots,  personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

There are several options for acclimation for Cho Oyu. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is a good option. Some of our clients take advantage of our climbs of Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.

The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. SNOWY HORIZON maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit, trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower and in Nepal manpower and helicopters rescue. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions, which include back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency. In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. Such an evacuation is considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster and the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.

Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health.  Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help to carry your day pack or change a pace, take an extra day of rest or descend if necessary.
Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication.  Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination.  Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter.  Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

An expedition on Cho Oyu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects.  Excellent physical condition is a must.   Many of our clients for Cho Oyu expeditions are cyclist, recreational runners and fitness enthusiast.   Some of these clients ride 50 to 100 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons.  If clients are participating in these are similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition.  This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip.  This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip.   To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition. 
There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period.  This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction.   The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.

Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page.  Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group.  Simply click on BOOK NOW/INQUIRE FORM button and give us required details.   In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip.  We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details.  An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence.  The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival. 
For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/terms_conditions.php
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/how_to_book_trek_in_nepal.php

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation.  Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1.  Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate.  Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp. 

Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food.  We will then provide a similar acclimatization.  If  required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one.  During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions.  If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit.  At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success or give up the trip after first trying to summit with camp one, two and three experience and acclimatize.

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