Everest Expedition (8,848 M)- North Side Spring - 2013
Mt. Everest, the highest mountain on Earth called appropriately in Nepali Sagarmatha ‘Sky Mother’ and Chomolungma in Tibetan straddles the border of these two nations. First official measurement was conducted in 1856 during the Great Trigonometric survey of British India. Known then as peak XV was certified at 8840m. With a simple technology and the distance from the mountain, the height was determined with really phenomenal accuracy and only 8m off from current value of 8848m. The name Everest was chosen to honour British Surveyor General of India Sir George Everest. Tibet and Nepal were closed to foreigners, so it is reasonable to assume that local names of the mountain were unknown. It was lucky that the tallest mountain was not named after an unaccomplished politician or a royal.
Everest is a climbing pinnacle to everyone from accomplished climber to an inexperienced but wealthy tourist being taken to the summit for a substantial fee by a professional mountain guide with a team of climbing Sherpa guides. The climbing royalty fee of U$25,000 forms a substantial source of tourist revenue for the government of Nepal, for whom Himalayas are a substantial natural resource due to lack of any substantial mineral resources. There are two commercial routes on Everest, south route via Southeast Ridge from Nepal and via North Ridge from Tibet.
The Chinese royalty is lower then Nepalese but the climb from Nepal via Khumbu icefall is extremely spectacular and sheltered from winds up to camp 4 at South Col making climbing much easier and much more pleasant. It is along Western Cwm (it is Welsh word pronounced ‘coom’; it means cirque or bowl shaped valley) well sheltered from winds and very hot on sunny windless day, called also a Valley of Silence.
Approaches to ABC
From North (Tibet): North Base Camp is approached from the Tingri Plain through Rongbuk (4880m), the location of famous Buddhist monastery. Two day trek to Everest North Base Camp (6400m) begins at the Chinese Base Camp (5200m) with intermediate acclimatization in Middle Camp (5700m). Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nylam (3700m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
Climbing Routes North Side:
The north side of Everest in Tibet, northeast ridge route, begins from with the trek to the Rongbuk Glacier accessible from Tingri by jeep to Chinese Base camp (5,180m), which is located on a gravel plain just below the glacier.
There is an intermediate Middle Camp before reaching the Advance Base Camp. To reach Middle Camp climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse (6,100 m).
The Advanced Base Camp (6500m) is situated below the North Col and there are 3 camps above before final summit push. The route is in a way more technical because there is more exposed rock and the weather is much more severe then on Nepalese side as it is exposed to winds all the time.
Camp 1 is located on the North Col, where climbers face long and monotonous ascend of the glacier to the foot of the Col. Fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col (7,010m). From the North Col, there is ascending along the rocky north ridge to Camp 2 (7,775m).
From Camp 2 the route crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp 3 (8,230m). Camp 3 the last camp from where the final summit push is staged.
There are three famous Steps after camp 3. There is a treacherous traverse from the base of the First Step (8,500 m) to the crux of the climb, the Second Step (8,580 m). This includes a climbing aid called the "Chinese ladder", a metal ladder placed semi-permanently in 1975 by a party of Chinese climbers and used by virtually all climbers on the route. The Third Step is inconsequential (8,690 m) followed by a snow slope of 50 degrees and the final summit ridge to the summit pyramid.
Our Everest Climbing Services
In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple Everest climbs. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing and to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Full Board: For our full board climbers we set up intermediate facility at camp 2 (6750m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2.
We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2 and Base Camp from Camp 3, 4 and the climbing route.
Testimonials
Pumori Expedition -Autumn 2009
We have been Travelling Nepal already 2 times for climbing Ama dablam and Lhotse Expedition in Year 2004 and 2007. We used Snowy Horizon Expedition for Pumori Expedition. We went with some international and local companies before we found Rishi Bhandari of Snowy Horizon Manager in 2009. Comparing to all companies that I used before 2004, the quality service level, commitments and Price, we found Snowy Horizon Treks are first class and very satisfied with professional & experienced crews. All the services from Arrival day to Final departure........Read More
Everest North Side Climbing Map
Itinerary Details of Everest Expedition Northside Spring 2013
31Mar/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airporty & transfer to hotel(1350m)
01Apr/Day2-3: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.
03Apr/Day 04: Early in the morning drive from Kathmandu to kodari Border (720m) after immigration formalities you may cross border and then Drive Zhangmu(1600m), over night in Hotel.
04Apr/Day 05: Drive from Zhangmu to Naylam(3700m) which takes two hours drive by land coursers jeep over night in Hotel.
05Apr/Day 06: Rest Day in Naylam for Acclimatization
06Apr/Day 07: Drive from Naylam to Tingri (4300m) which takes about four hours over night in hotel.
07Apr/Day 08: Rest Day at Tingri for Acclimatization
08Apr/Day 09: After break fast drive from Tingri to Chinese Base Camp(5200m) which takes about four hours drive.
09Apr/D 10-12: Rest and acclimatization in Chinese Base Camp (5200m). to prepare and arrange yaks to go to Advance base camp.
12Apr/Day 13: Trek from Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp (5700m) which takes about five hours. over night in Camp.
13Apr/Day 14: Trek from Middle Camp to Advance Base Camp of Everest (6400m.) Prepare camp overnight in Camp
14Apr/D15-60: Climbing Period (summit Period of Mt. Everest 8848m)
31May/Day 61: Preparation to returning(Clean Base Camp) and trek to Chinese base camp(5200m)
01Jun/Day 62: Clean Chinese Base Camp then Drive from Chinese Base Camp to Tingri(4200m) which takes about four hours.
02Jun/Day 63: Drive from Tingri to Zhanmu(1600m) which takes about six hours over night in hotel.
03Jun/Day 64: Early in the morning Drive from Zhanmu to Kodari Border and after immigration formalities from china side, we may collect Nepal visa from Nepal side and then drive to Kathmandu transfer to hotel.
04Jun/Day 65: Leisure Day and shopping in Kathmandu.
05Jun/Day 66: Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.
06Jun/Day 67: Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities
Note:
- the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
- the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
- For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
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The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
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Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Island Peak Climbing Trip
Full Board Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Six nights four star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$7150);
- Expedition Permit to climb Everest along Northeast ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- ABC common equipment including dining tent, toilet tent, table and chairs;
- One Everest summit climbing Shrepa per climber.
- 7 Oxygen Bottles (24L) with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance.
- Ice falls charges
- All tent for camp 1, 2, 3 will be provided
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- All camping equipment in Everest Base Camp;
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 60kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- Required Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during Climbing Period Per peron
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/ Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Full Board Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars during trekking.
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) re entry visa fee.
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
- Wake talkies & Filming permit ( if special camera).
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
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Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides (When you summated you have to pay) as per Mountaineering Association rules.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Base Camp Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Six nights four star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$7150);
- Expedition Permit to climb Everest along Northeast ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam, Tingri (B/L/D);
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- ABC common equipment including dining tent, toilet tent, table and chairs;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/ Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Climbing sherpa and High altitude food
- Tent above Base Camp
- Ice falls charges and garbage Deposit
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Appropriate food for high altitude.
- Snowy Horizon service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp and not allow to take any crew above ABC
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.
Rental Price List
| Item | Rental Cost US$ | Purchase Cost US$ |
|---|---|---|
| Expedition Tent | US$ 150.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Rucksack (small) | US$ 50.00 | US$ 150.00 |
| Rucksack (large) | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Gas Stove | US$ 25.00 | US$ 100.00 |
| Oxygen bottle | - | US$ 500.00 |
| Oxygen mask + Regulator | US$ 250 (second Hend) | US$ 900.00 |
| Sleeping bag | US$ 100.00 | US$ 400.00 |
| Down Jacket | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| High Camp Goose Down Jacket | US$ 200.00 | US$ 500.00 |
