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Gangapurna Expedition (7, 4 55m) Spring 2015

Ganggapurna (7455m) is located east-northeast of Annapurna at the opposite end of Grand Barrier to Tilicho Peak on the shoulder extending 10km from Annapurna directly east of Roc Noir. Ganggapurna was first climbed in 1965 by a German expedition led by Günther Hauser, via the East Ridge, which is the most accessible, most obvious and most elegant but challenging climbing line.

A standard access to the Base Camp (4650m) is through Besi Sahar via Marsyangdi valley within 10 day trek and affording an excellent acclimatization. After the climb one can fly-out from Humde, only few hours of hiking down from the Base Camp or from Jomsom with 3 days spectacular hike via Thorong La pass (5416m).

This awesome climb is straightforward but somewhat challenging ridge climb with low objective danger. The view from Ganggapurna summit is breathtaking on Annapurna massif, Dhaulagiri, Tibetan plateu and Tilicho Peak on the other end of the Grand Barrier.

Our Gangapurna Base Camp Services

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a high quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity. We offer wide range of services from Base Camp logistics to fully guided climbs with individual climbing Sherpas helping their clients to realise the summit.
High elevation climbing requires not only a set of climbing skills and high fitness level but also the ability to cope with high elevation conditions affecting one ability to function to the extend possible at sea level, where most of climbers are living.
Our philosophy is to support climbers with the skill and high altitude genetic adaptation ability of a Climbing Sherpa, who was born and grew up at high elevation as did his predecessors.
Ganggapurna requires set-up of 3 high camps, where the gear, food and fuel has to be carried up. No matter how physically strong and fit one is at the sea level, at high elevation one’s physical efficiency drops considerably so the team of Climbing Sherpas pooled from all clients will set-up the route to allow you to summit.
Having personal Climbing Sherpa eliminates arbitrage of the ‘Leader’ to decide who will get limited climbing support on the summit day. In the emergency situation the classic expedition Leader has responsibility for a number of people including themselves with impaired physical abilities due to high altitude, while Climbing Sherpa has only responsibility for his own client and with high physical abilities at high elevation due to natural genetic predisposition and all in cooperation of other expedition Climbing Sherpas. Our Climbing Sherpas are highly trained and experienced climbers doing high elevation climbs in Nepal and Tibet season after season.
We believe that our philosophy of an expedition with the Basecamp Leader-Coordinator and the team of Climbing Sherpas assigned to individual climbers is by far the most efficient and safer way to achieve high elevation summit and much superior over the solution with the climb Leader controlling limited number of resources.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect a good advise and support. They also know personally most of other Climbing Sherpas and network together in the Base camp regardless of the operator they work for.
Logistically Ganggapurna is a very easy peak, although technically challenging and it is suitable even for a small climbing team.

Our Gangapurna Full Board Service:

For full board clients, who would be less experienced climbers or single climbers requiring a climbing buddy, we provide personal tent and food at high camps with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. We provide a personal Climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including provision of food and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route. Our Climbing Sherpas will network, cooperate and work with other clients Climbing Sherpas on the route to ensure safety of his client as well al overall expedition team.
After arriving to the Base camp (4650m) we will take a day or so for acclimatizing rest and preparations including snow practice so that we all develop common understanding and refresh our basic climbing and rescue techniques and develop our climbing protocol.
Our climb protocol follows standard high elevation principles of acclimatization and progressively building higher camps.
The standard route begins at the Base Camp (4650m) located at the foot of Ganggapurna North Shoulder at the glacial stream fed from Glacial Dome Peak located to the west of Ganggapurna, which will be our water source while in the Base camp.
The climb is very straightforward. We will setup an ABC at 5000m on a small snow plateau under the North Shoulder from where we will be able to step on Gangapurna Glacier. From the ABC we do our first scouting acclimatization climb to Camp 1 (5600m) located on a large plateau below the East Ridge along the 20deg/600m glacial route. We will assess the route and setup fixed lines if required. We will return to the Base camp for acclimatization rest.
During the second climb we bring the remaining gear and set-up Camp 1, where we stay overnight. The following day we move on 45deg/1100m snowfield to Camp 2 (6300m) located half way on the route and stay there overnight. We explore the rest of the route to 6900m the following day and return to Camp 1 and the following day to the Base camp.
Our third round will be the first summit push. We climb to Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3 and push for the summit along the 35deg/400m East Ridge. East Ridge is by large a snow route with a low objective danger but high exposure due to narrow East Ridge. We will return to Camp 1 and to Base camp following day.
Our program allows 17 days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength. It gives us plenty of opportunities to carry supplies to camp 1, 2 and 3 and few opportunities of summit push.

Approaches to ABC

From Besi Sahar via Marsyangdi Valley
This is a standard access to the Base Camp. It starts from Besi Sahar, where we drive from Kathmandu and follows Marsyangdi valley with 10 day trek affording an excellent acclimatization opportunity. The access trek is a part of world renowned trek around Annapurna. It is stunningly beautiful and affords phenomenal cultural experience of Buddhist and Hindu cultures.
We will follow a standard Annapurna circuit trek to Manang, where we turn off to the Ganggapurna Base Camp (4560m) at the base of the North Shoulder. On the way back we will return to the Annapurna circuit and will follow it via Thorong La pass (5416m) to Jomsom, from where we fly out to Pokhara. On the way we will pass through interesting Buddhist villages with very Tibetan flavour.

Climbing Routes

East Ridge Route
The East Ridge of Ganggapurna is a straightforward climb, starting by crossing the Ganggapurna Glacier and then climbing up 1100m North Face section followed by 400m East Ridge climb. There is a low objective danger due to potential avalanche on the North Face section and crevasses crossing the Ganggapurna glacier.
The Base camp is located at the foot of North Shoulder of Ganggapurna Shoulder at the glacial stream fed from Glacial Dome Peak located to the west of Ganggapurna, which will be our water source while in the Base camp.
The Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is located on the snowfield shelf 300m above the BC via 30deg snow hike.
Camp 1 (5600m) is located on a glacial plateau at the foot of the East Ridge. Past ABC we step on upper section of Ganggapurna glacier and climb 600m on the glacier with 20deg inclination to Camp1. From Camp 1 we face 50deg/1100m North face of the East Ridge. It is fairly steep but well protected.
Camp 2 (6300m) is located half way on the North Face 50deg/1100m route, which is a snowfield climb.
Camp 3 (6900m) is located at the top on the North Face 50deg/1100m route, where we top the East Ridge and begin our 40deg/400m summit section.
Summit is section of the route is a narrow snow covered ridge with some cornices and hence it constitutes a considerable exposure.

Testimonials

Pumori Expedition -Autumn 2009

Pumori ExpeditionWe have been Travelling Nepal already 2 times for climbing Ama dablam and Lhotse Expedition in Year 2004 and 2007. We used Snowy Horizon Expedition for Pumori Expedition. We went with some international and local companies before we found Rishi Bhandari of Snowy Horizon Manager in 2009. Comparing to all companies that I used before 2004, the quality service level, commitments and Price, we found Snowy Horizon Treks are first class and very satisfied with professional & experienced crews. All the services from Arrival day to Final departure........Read More

Gangapurna Climbing Map

Enlarge Map

Itanerary Details of Gangapurna Expedition Spring 2015

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer

Day 02-03: Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities

Day 04: We take a 7hrs scenic drive from Kathmandu to Besi Sahar (823m); we will stop several times during the trip to try some local cuisine; lodge accommodation

Day 05: Trek 5hrs from Beshi Sahar to Bahundanda (1305m); lodge accommodation

Day 06: Trek 6hrs from Bahundanda to Chyamche (1430m)

Day 07: Trek 5hrs from Chyamche (1410m) to Dharapani (1860m)

Day 08: Trek 6hrs from Dharapani to Chame (2670m)

Day 09: Trek 5hrs from Chame to Pisang (3100m)

Day 10: Trek 6hrs from Pisang to Manang (3440m.)

Day 11: Rest day at Manang for acclimatization

Day 12: Trek 4hrs from Manang to Ganggapurna Base Camp (4650m); we prepare our Base Camp for the entire climbing period

Day 13-30: Climbing Period (Ganggapurna Summit 7455m)

Day 31: Preparation for return to Kathmandu; Clean Base Camp and trek 5hrs to Khangsara(3734m)

Day 32: Trek 6hrs from Khangsara to Thorong Phedi (4420m.)

Day 33: Trek 7hrs from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong La (5416m) Pass

Day 34: Trek 5hrs from Muktinath to Jomsom via Kagbeni (2895m)

Day 37: We take early morning 20min flight from Jomsom to Pokhara; We drive 7hrs from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus. You can also take a 25min flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu; Hotel accommodation

Day 36: Day for sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Farewell-Celebration dinner in the evening

Day 37: Transfer to the airport for final departure ,or alternatively join another activities

Note:

  • the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
  • the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
  • For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?

Itinerary Details of Gangapurna Expedition Autumn 2014

Sep15/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel(1350m)

Sep16/Day 02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.

Sep18/Day 04: Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (823m.) which takes about six hours over night in lodge.

Sep19/Day 05: Trek from Beshi shahar to Bahundanda (1305m), which takes about five hours. Over night in lodge.

Sep20/Day 06: Trek from Bahundanda to Chyamche (1430m.) which takes about six hours.

Sep11/Day 07: Trek from Chyamche (1410m.) to Dharapani (1860m.) and it takes about five hours.

Sep22/Day 08: Trek from Dharapani to Chame (2670m.) which takes about five and half-hours.

Sep23/Day 09: Trek from Chame to Pisang (3100m.), which takes about five hours.

Sep24/Day 10: Trek from Pisang to Manang (3440m.) and it takes about five and half hours.

Sep25/Day 11: Rest day at Manang for acclimatization and hang in and around town.

Sep26/Day 12: Trek from Manang to Gangapurna Base Camp (4600m) and Prepare base camp.

Sep27/Day 12-34: Climbing Period (Gangapurna Summit 7455m)

Oct19/Day 35 : Preparation to returning(Clean Base Camp) and trek to Manang(3440m) Which takes about four hours.

Oct20/Day 36: Trek from Manang ot Thorong Phedi (4420m.) which takes about six and half hours.
Oct21/Day 37: Trek from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong La (5416m) Pass and it takes about seven hours.

Oct22/Day 38: Trek from Muktinath to Jomsom via Kagbeni (2895 m.) and it takes about five hours.

Oct23/Day 39: Early in the morning Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara, which takes about 20 minutes. Then Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours.

Oct24/Day 40: Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

Oct25/Day 41: Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities

Itinerary Details of Gangapurna Expedition Spring 2015

Apr12/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel(1350m)

Apr13/Day 02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.

Apr14/Day 04: Drive from Kathmandu to Besisahar (823m.) which takes about six hours over night in lodge.

Apr15/Day 05: Trek from Beshi shahar to Bahundanda (1305m), which takes about five hours. Over night in lodge.

Apr16/Day 06: Trek from Bahundanda to Chyamche (1430m.) which takes about six hours.

Apr17/Day 07: Trek from Chyamche (1410m.) to Dharapani (1860m.) and it takes about five hours.

Apr18/Day 08: Trek from Dharapani to Chame (2670m.) which takes about five and half-hours.

Apr19/Day 09: Trek from Chame to Pisang (3100m.), which takes about five hours.

Apr20/Day 10: Trek from Pisang to Manang (3440m.) and it takes about five and half hours.

Apr21/Day 11: Rest day at Manang for acclimatization and hang in and around town.

Apr22/Day 12: Trek from Manang to Gangapurna Base Camp (4600m) and Prepare base camp.

Apr23/Day 12-34: Climbing Period (Gangapurna Summit 7455m)

May15/Day 35 : Preparation to returning(Clean Base Camp) and trek to Manang(3440m) Which takes about four hours.

May16/Day 36: Trek from Manang ot Thorong Phedi (4420m.) which takes about six and half hours.
May17/Day 37: Trek from Thorong Phedi to Muktinath (3850m.) via Thorong La (5416m) Pass and it takes about seven hours.

May18/Day 38: Trek from Muktinath to Jomsom via Kagbeni (2895 m.) and it takes about five hours.

May19/Day 39: Early in the morning Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara, which takes about 20 minutes. Then Drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu by tourist mini bus that takes about seven hours.

May20/Day 40: Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.

May21/Day41: Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities

  • The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price

  • Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip

Full Board Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport (by Non A/C Vehicles) as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • 4 Nights accommodations at 4 Star hotels in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
  • All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/ Lodge/ Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Per person 35kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 25kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mt. Everest.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Gangapurna
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteer Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  • Emergency Oxygen mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges and Gamow Bags.
  • We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)

Full Board Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner, etc.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Transportation is not on disposal basis. It is strictly as per the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be charged extra.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera).
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary

Base Camp Service Cost Include


  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • 4 nights 4 star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
  • All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Gangapurna
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • Per person 30 kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 20kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and kitchen crew up to base camp.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/ Pashmina etc.)

Base Camp Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Climbing sherpa and High altitude food
  • Tend obove Base Camp
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
  • Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s)
  • Appropriate food for high altitude.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.

Rental Price List

Item Rental Cost US$ Purchase Cost US$
Expedition Tent US$ 150.00 US$ 300.00
Rucksack (small) US$ 50.00 US$ 150.00
Rucksack (large) US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
Gas Stove US$ 25.00 US$ 100.00
Oxygen bottle - US$ 500.00
Oxygen mask + Regulator US$ 250 (second Hend) US$ 900.00
Sleeping bag US$ 100.00 US$ 400.00
Down Jacket US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket US$ 200.00 US$ 500.00

 

Climbing Sherpa Fee U$2,000 (if required by client for base camp service user)