Govt. Regd. No: 65323/066/067
24 Hours Service: +977-9851031006
Click here go to Online Support My status
You are here » Home » Nepal » Mountain Expedition » Fixed Departure Expedition » Kanchenjunga Expedition Autumn

Kanchenjunga Expedition (8,586m) - Autumn 2013

Kangchenjunga is an enormous massif consisting of 5 summits with 4 of them over 8000m: Kangchenjunga I (8586m), Kangchenjunga West (8505m), Kangchenjunga South (8494m) and Kangbachen (7903m). With 4 ridges radiating in X pattern almost symmetrically from the main summit aesthetically it is a beautiful mountains visible from many places with a famous view from Tiger Hill in Darjeeling, India.

Kangchenjunga is located on the border between Nepal and Sikkim and it is very remote attracting relatively few trekkers and therefore it retains much of its pristine beauty, mystery and charm. The mountain due to its beauty and size is considered a sacred by local Sikkimese people.

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world and only after the British Great Trigonometric Survey in 1849 Mount Everest (known as Peak XV at the time) was crowned the highest and Kangchenjunga the third-highest. Kangchenjunga was first climbed on May 25, 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, of a British expedition. As a respect to the beliefs of the Sikkimese, who hold the summit sacred, they stopping a few feet short of the actual summit and this has developed to a tradition followed by successful summit parties since then.

The climb is technical, even along the normal route but it is extremely interesting to climb with technical and intricate mixed rock and ice climb to the North Col followed by a not too technical steady 1500m ascent to the summit. The section past North Col is exposed to the weather. The views are stunning both from the Base Camp as well as during entire climb.
The access trek from Suketar to the Base camp is also interesting due to its remoteness, the cultures inhibiting the area and a very rare endemic flora with 30 varieties of rhododendrons and 69 varieties of orchids.

Five summits form this massive mountain and hence the name is derived from the Tibetan words, 'Kanchen' and 'Dzonga' meaning 'Five Treasuries of the Great Snow'.


Our Kanchenjunga Climbing Services

In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food.
In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. We also have a comprehensive First Aid Kit available to our clients.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries
Full Board: For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared in high camps by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Full board with us means a provision of a personal climbing Sherpa to each individual climber, who will help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 and required bivvy including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. There are no commercial expeditions on Kangchenjunga so your climbing Sherpa with cooperation of other clients climbing Sherpas will set-up fixed ropes to North Col.

Approaches to ABC

There are two Base Camps to climb Kangchenjunga, Kangchenjunga North Base Camp on Kangchenjunga Glacier and South Base Camp on Yalung Glacier. The access to both camps is from Suketar (2400m), the town with closest airport to the mountain with flights to Kathmandu. Suketar is also last town accessible from Kathmandu by the road. The route from North Base Camp via the North Col is the Normal route. It is not the easiest by it is the safest route with least objective danger.
Kangchenjunga is the most remote of all 8000m peaks in Nepal, and the trek to the North Base camp from Suketar takes about 11 days along Ghunsa Khola valley; it is 80km long gradual hike from 900m to 5100m, so it is a very nice way to relax and acclimatise to start the climb on the strong foot. Suketar is located at 2400m, so first day is a long downhill of 1500m, which has to be climbed on the return way.

Climbing Routes

The normal route via North Col and North face is definitely the safest but it is technical climbing. It will definitely not be suitable for an inexperienced climber but it is a delight for technical climber. The scenery is phenomenal all the way from the Base Camp overlooking the Kangchenjunga glacier, Kangchenjunga I and Kangbachen.
The climb is challenging but very interesting. The most difficult section is to the North Col of about 500m of mixed ice and rock climb, where our climbing Sherpas will establish fixed rope route from just above 6500m to 7000m on the Col, a bee-line to take gear up safely. Once on the North Col the climb is along the ridge and the North face. The climb becomes less technical but very exposed to the weather.
From the Col the climb is typically done with 3 camps or bivvies moving up slowly to the summit.

Testimonials

Pumori Expedition -Autumn 2009

Pumori ExpeditionWe have been Travelling Nepal already 2 times for climbing Ama dablam and Lhotse Expedition in Year 2004 and 2007. We used Snowy Horizon Expedition for Pumori Expedition. We went with some international and local companies before we found Rishi Bhandari of Snowy Horizon Manager in 2009. Comparing to all companies that I used before 2004, the quality service level, commitments and Price, we found Snowy Horizon Treks are first class and very satisfied with professional & experienced crews. All the services from Arrival day to Final departure........Read More

Kanchenjunga Climbing Map

Enlarge Map

Itinerary Details of Kanchenjunga Expedition Autumn 2013

Sep01/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel(1350m)

Sep02/Day 02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.

Sep04/Day 04: Fly from Kathamndu to Biritnagar( Suketar) (2300m) or Drive from Kathmandu to Biratnagar by tourist vehicles which takes about nine hours and then transfer to hotel.

Sep05/Day 05: Trek from Suketar to Phurumbu (921m), which takes about four hours overnight in the camp.

Sep06/Day 06: Trek from Phurumbu to Chirwa(1270m) via Timor river which takes about five hours overnight in the camp

Sep07/Day 07: Trek from Chirwa to Sekarthum(1660m) via Ghusna River which takes about six hours, overnight in the camp

Sep08/Day 08: Trek from Sekarthum to Amji-Lhasa(2510m), which takes about five hours and over night in camp.

Sep09/Day 09: Trek from Amje Lhasa to Gyabla(3450m),which takes about six hours overnight in the camp

Sep10/Day 10: Trek from Gyabla to Ghunsa(3595m),Which takes about Five hours overnight in the camp

Sep11/Day 11: Trek from Ghunsa to KhamBachen(4095m),which takes about five hours and overnight in camp.

Sep12/Day 12: Rest day in Khambachen for acclimatization , overnight in the camp

Sep13/Day 13: Trek from Khambachen to Lonak(4785m) which takes about five hours and over night in the camp

Sep14/Day 14: Trek from Lonak to Pangpema(5100m) , which takes about five hours overnight in the camp

Sep15/Day 15: Pangpema (5100m)Base camp Established and necessary Preparation,

Sep16/Day 16-45: Climbing Period.(summit period for Kanchenjungha 8586m)

Oct15/Day 46: Preparation to returning (Cleaning up Base Camp)

Oct16/Day 47: Trek from Kanchenjungha Base Camp to Lonak(4785m), which takes about five hours over night in Camp.

Oct17/Day 48: Trek from Lonak to Khambachen(4095m), which takes about five hours over night in camp.

Oct18/Day 49: Trek from Khambachen to Ghunsa,(3595m) which takes about four hours, and over night in camp.

Oct19/Day 50: Trek from Ghunsa to Sekarthum(1660m) which takes about six hours over night in camp.

Oct20/Day 51: Trek from Sekarthem to Chirwa(1270m) that takes about five and half hours over night in camp.

Oct21/Day 52: Trek from Chirwa to suketar(2310m) which takes about six hours and then over night in lodge.

Oct22/Day 53: Fly from Biratnagar to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel (1350m).

Oct23/Day 54: Full day sightseeing and shopping in Kathmandu, farewell dinner party in the evening and overnight in the hotel

Oct24/Day 55: Final Departure or alternatively join other program.

Note:

  • the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
  • the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
  • For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
  • The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price

  • Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip

Full Board Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport (by Non A/C Vehicles) as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • 4 Nights accommodations at 4 Star hotels in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
  • One day sightseeing in Kathmandu (Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, Boudhnath and Durbar Square).
  • Flight ticket Kathmandu-Suketar-Kathmandu or land transportation
  • Local English-speaking Tour Guide for sightseeing in Kathmandu.
  • Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
  • All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/ Lodge/ Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
  • Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mt. Everest.
  • Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Kanchenjunga
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteer Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
  • Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
  • 5 Oxygen Bottles (24L) with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the base camp.
  • Solar panel for light and battery charger.
  • All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges and Gamow Bags.
  • We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance
  • high altitude food for member and sherpa including drinks and cooking crew
  • Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
  • Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)

Full Board Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu and Pokhara (except for the farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner, etc.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
  • Transportation is not on disposal basis. It is strictly as per the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be charged extra.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera).
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary

Base Camp Service Cost Include

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
  • Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
  • Flight ticket Kathmandu-Suketar-Kathmandu or land transportation
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
  • Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Dhaulagiri
  • Nepalese Government Royalty;
  • Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff in Base camp
  • All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
  • Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
  • Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
  • Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
  • All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
  • Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • Appropriate food for climbing crew at base camp and chinese Base Camp.
  • All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
  • Our service Charges

Base Camp Service Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
  • Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
  • Airfare of international flights.
  • Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
  • Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Wake talkies & Filming permit.
  • Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3
  • Personal climbing gears;
  • Climbing Guide(s)
  • Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
  • Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp
  • High altitude food for sherpa and member
  • Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION

Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.

Rental Price List

Item Rental Cost US$ Purchase Cost US$
Expedition Tent US$ 150.00 US$ 300.00
Rucksack (small) US$ 50.00 US$ 150.00
Rucksack (large) US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
Gas Stove US$ 25.00 US$ 100.00
Oxygen bottle - US$ 500.00
Oxygen mask + Regulator US$ 250 (second Hend) US$ 900.00
Sleeping bag US$ 100.00 US$ 400.00
Down Jacket US$ 100.00 US$ 300.00
High Camp Goose Down Jacket US$ 200.00 US$ 500.00

 

Climbing Sherpa Fee U$4,000 (if required by client for base camp service user)