Pumori Expedition (7161m.) - Spring 2013
Situated in Khumbu region, the pyramid shaped and stunningly looking 7161m (23,494ft) peak, Pumori dominates the skyline behind Kalapatther 5643m (18,513ft), which looks like a clump of rock on Pumori Southwest ridge. The peak was named "Pumori" by George Leigh Mallory, apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. The best season to explore this stunning peak is September to November and March to May. We will climb the southeast buttress in its lower reaches before traversing open snow-slopes to get to a Col on the East Ridge.
The climb is rated Class 3 in YDS (Yosemite Decimal System), which defines the climb as a scrambling with increased exposure. A rope can be carried but is usually not required. Falls are not always fatal.
In preparation to summit Pumori we set-up 3 camps at 5700m, 6200m and 6480m, form which we make summit attempt. In the jest the climb is along mix of snowfield and some easy ice with the necessity to navigate a large crevasse past camp 3 and finishing the climb along the Southeast ridge.
The climb is very popular and coveted as introductory qualifying climb for Everest by many operators. Whatever your reason to climb it is a fun and reasonably straightforward and accessible climb with relatively low objective danger. It is also a very nice introduction to climbing in Khumbu region and a fun way to do Everest Base Camp trek with a fun 7000m peak climb with easy, quick and non-cumbersome acclimatization process.
Our Pumori Climbing Services
In the Base Camp:Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
In the Base camp our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advise and support.
Full Board:For full board clients we provide personal tent and food with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route.
After arriving to the Base camp (5300m) we will take a day or so of acclimatizing rest and preparations including snow practice so that we all develop common understanding and refresh our basic climbing techniques and develop our climbing protocol. Our climb protocol will follow a standard high elevation principles of acclimatization and building higher camps.
The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located above Gorak Shep on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be either filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiling. The Base Camp is located at the base of Kalapatther (5545m), which looks really great from the camp. The camp is also elevated above the Gorak Shep and it has view on Everest.We will first walk to Camp 1 at 5700m and return to Base camp for overnight rest. Following day we walk up to camp 1, set it up and stay there overnight and return to the base Camp for one rest day after exploring route to camp 2.
We move from the Base Camp directly to camp 2, setup camp 2 and stay there overnight. Following day we move up to Camp 3, setup the camp and stay there overnight. There will be an opportunity for summit attempt for members who feel strong.We return to Base camp for couple of rest days to rest and recover followed by another summit attempt.Our program allows 18 days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength.
Approaches to ABC
The approached to Pumori route is through the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4900m). It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Tengaboche (36600m), Pheriche (4270m), Lobuche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) to Pumori Base Camp (5300m). It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
Climbing Routes
The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located above Gorak Shep on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be either filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiled. The Base Camp is located at the base of Kalapatther (5545m), which forms a tremendous backdrop for the camp. The camp is also elevated above the Gorak Shep and hence it has an amazing view on Everest.
Camp 1, serving really as the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is located on a protected rock outcrop at 5300m; it takes only 3hrs of hiking to reach Camp 1 from the Base Camp. It will be our base to store our gear and supplies for the climb.
Camp 2 (6200m) is located on a narrow ridge on the top of ice ledge. The route to camp 2 is a mixed snow and rock with a slope to 35deg and will involve some scrambling. Where required our Climbing Sherpa will fix the rope for the rest of the climbing period
Camp 3 is located on the ridge on a protected flat area below a rock buttress at 6700m. The section from camp 2 to camp 3 is short but it is the most difficult section of the climb due to a short but steep icy snow section of some 6m and about 75deg, where the fixed rope will be set-up. After that the slope flattens and we reach Camp 3 about 100m above. There is some objective danger of crevasses and fallen ice from overhanging seracs. We are on the ridge and view is tremendous on Everest massif as well as the view opens towards Tibetan plateau.
We are only about 560m from the summit which can be reached along the ridge. The route is along a snow field with about 30-40deg inclination. There is however a huge crevasse (bergshrund) at 6850m, about 200m long and 10-20m wide. The crevasse can be negotiated on the right hand side be traversing along towards Tibet and finding a solid bridge. Past the crevasse there is an easy walk-up to the summit.
Testimonials
Pumori Expedition -Autumn 2009
We have been Travelling Nepal already 2 times for climbing Ama dablam and Lhotse Expedition in Year 2004 and 2007. We used Snowy Horizon Expedition for Pumori Expedition. We went with some international and local companies before we found Rishi Bhandari of Snowy Horizon Manager in 2009. Comparing to all companies that I used before 2004, the quality service level, commitments and Price, we found Snowy Horizon Treks are first class and very satisfied with professional & experienced crews. All the services from Arrival day to Final departure........Read More
Pumori Climbing Map
Itanerary Details of Pumori Expedition - Spring 2013
Apr10/Day 01:Arrival in Kathmandu Airport and transfer to Hotel (1350m)
Apr11/Day 02: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.
Apr12/Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla(2840m) and trek to Phakding (approx 4hrs walk)
Apr13/Day 04: Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 7hrs walk )
Apr14/Day 05: Weak up early in the morning at 5 o'clock. You may walk to Everest view Hotel (3800m approx 2 hrs) and visit to Hilary museum and Sherpa museum and over night at Namche Bazar
Apr15/Day06:Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche(3860m approx 5 hrs walk)
Apr16/Day 07: Trek from Tyangboche to Pheriche / dingboche (4250m approx 5 hrs walk)
Apr17/Day 08: Trek from Pheriche / dingboche to Lobuche (5018m approx 4hrs walk)
Apr18/Day 09: Lobuche rest day for acclimatization
Apr19/Day10: Trek from Lobuche to Gorakshep (5170m approx 3 hrs walk) and rest
Apr20/Day 11: Trek from Gorakshep to Pumori Base camp (5200m) which takes about two hours.
Apr21/Day12-30: Climbing period (summit period for Pumori 7,161m)
May09/Day 31: Trek from Base Camp (5218)to Dingboche(4260m approx 4hrs walk)
May10/Day 32: Trek from Dingboche to Tengboche (3860M approx 4 hrs walk)
May11/Day 33: Trek from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar(3440m approx 4hrs walk)
May12/Day 34: Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla(2840m approx 7hrs walk)
May14/Day 35: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu Transfer to hotel
May15/Day 36: Full Day sightseeing of Kathmandu Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening
May16/Day 37: Final departure, alternatively, join other activities
Note:
- the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
- the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
- For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
-
The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
-
Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Trip
Full Board Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport (by Non A/C Vehicles) as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- 4 Nights accommodations at 4 Star hotels in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
- Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member and Staff including airport tax.
- All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/ Lodge/ Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
- Per person 35kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 25kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mt. Everest.
- Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Pumori
- Nepalese Government Royalty;
- One Experienced, Trained, Government Licensed, and 03 Times Everest Summiteer Climbing/expedition Guide (Sherpa) per client.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs in trekking and expedition.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- Required fixed and dynamic rope during climbing period.
- Emergency Oxygen mask and regulator provided on requirement of guest with appropriate charge
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Solar panel for light and battery charger.
- All tents for camp 1, 2 and 3. Ice fall charges and Gamow Bags.
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance
- Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
- Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
Full Board Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except for the farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars or any other food consumed beyond the prescribed breakfast, lunch and dinner, etc.
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips.
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phone And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Camera/Video Fees or Trekking Gears
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations, etc.
- Transportation is not on disposal basis. It is strictly as per the itinerary. Any extra distance travelled will be charged extra.
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Walkie-talkies & Filming permit (if special camera).
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
Base Camp Service Cost Include
All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- 4 nights 4 star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis.
- Necessary staffs including experienced guides and porters during the trekking and climbing.
- Flight Tickets for Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu sector to all climbing member and Staff.
- All trekking and camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) along with available accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Guest Houses or tents for members and staffs during trek and climbing in twin sharing basis.
- Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)and TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System).
- Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Mt. Pumori
- Nepalese Government Royalty;
- Per person 30 kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 20kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and kitchen crew up to base camp.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
- Free assistance service for Cargo clearance and Duties.
- Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/ Pashmina etc.)
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Climbing sherpa and High altitude food
- Tend obove Base Camp
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival)
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s)
- Appropriate food for high altitude.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.
Rental Price List
| Item | Rental Cost US$ | Purchase Cost US$ |
|---|---|---|
| Expedition Tent | US$ 150.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Rucksack (small) | US$ 50.00 | US$ 150.00 |
| Rucksack (large) | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Gas Stove | US$ 25.00 | US$ 100.00 |
| Oxygen bottle | - | US$ 500.00 |
| Oxygen mask + Regulator | US$ 250 (second Hend) | US$ 900.00 |
| Sleeping bag | US$ 100.00 | US$ 400.00 |
| Down Jacket | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| High Camp Goose Down Jacket | US$ 200.00 | US$ 500.00 |
