Shishapangma Expedition - Autumn 2013
Snowy Horizon had organized a successful Shishapangma Expedition Autumn 2011 with total number of 43 members from Hong Kong, China and Romania. The actual no. of expeditors is 12 where as 10 of them were filming group up to advance base camp of Mt. Shishapangma. In this Expedition total 18 members of students and teachers had also participated as the observer of the Expedition up to the advance base camp of Shishapangma. We had organized another Shishapangma Expedition in spring 2012. Due to weather condition the approaching to the summit was not completed, however most of the climbers arrived up to the camp 4. We had also countable size of climbers for this mountain in autumn 2012. But, the China government and Tibet Mountaineering association didn’t allow permit due to their internal reason and we had postponed the trip for spring 2013.
The Snowy Horizon Shishapangma Expedition Autumn 2013 is also scheduled to be operated from 4th September 2013 till 30th October. This expedition is designed for experienced high mountain climbers expecting to be a leader and product of our renowned Himalayan Expedition Programs but hopping to work being individual participant. This expedition program is also designed for both natures of climbers willing to have only base camp service or full board service for the Mt. Shishapangma as per our offer. However for both types of clients, it is expected that they/he need to be involved in all expects of climbing activities. Previous high altitude Himalayan climbing or a strong resume of alpine ascents accompanied by moderate altitude climbs is required for this program. If you are a first timer to 8000m peaks, we suggest you that Cho Oyu would be a better choice for you instead of Shishapangma and we have this option too.
About Shishapangma:
Shishapangma is the 14th highest peak of the world with an altitude of 8012m. This mountain is considered as one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb. Shishapangma is also the highest peak in the Langtang Himal area. The trademark of Shishapangma is a long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, makes an imposing sight to all world to climb. The Nepalese name of the peak is Gosaitan meaning “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name is Xixapangma and it means literally "The Mountain overlooking the grassy plains". Shishapangma is only the peak with the height over 8000m which is totally located in Tibet.
Shishapangma was the last 8000m peak to be climbed. It is the closest 8000m Peak for possible Expedition from Kathmandu even though it lies totally in Tibet. Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964 had made first successful Shishapangma Expedition reaching to the summit via northwest face of Mt. Shishapangma and it was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980.
Shishapangma Expedition can be made from its South and North faces. This expedition is easier and less technical as well better commercial from Mt. Shishapangma’s North face. Due to a massif 2000m face and few challenging lines the South face of Mt. Shishapangma requires a good level of alpine climbing experience. The south face route is not feasible for the beginners of mountain climbing. There are two separate base camps for Shishapangma Expedition. They are to be used for Expedition Base separately from south and North side. The access to both Base Camps is very convenient by SUV from Nyalam, a considerable and rapidly expanding town and two days of hike to the Advanced Base Camp (5800m) of Mt. Shishapangma.
Approaches to ABC
From Kathmandu: Our standard expeditions start from Kathmandu. We cross the border to Tibet in Kodari. After 2 days of acclimatization at 3400m in Nyalam, we take 5hrs Jeep drive to the Drivers Camp at 4900m. Another possibility is to fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa/Tibet. From Lhasa it takes 2 days to get to the Chinese Camp.
The ABC is located 18km from the Drivers Camp it takes two days to get to the Base Camp (5400m) 18 km away. From here we execute our climb through 3 camps arrangement
Climbing Routes
Shishapangma is usually climbed via Northwest face and North ridge, which is the standard commercial route. This route is considered among the easiest routes to the summit of all the 8000m peaks, and has often been skied. The greatest challenge of this route is traversing from the Central to Main Summits along a knife-edged ridge.
The climb starts from the Base Camp (5800m) located on the lateral moraine of the Shishapangma glacier. We walk along the moraine and climb 20-30deg skiable and snowboadable snowfield to reach Camp1.
Camp 1 (6200m) is located on flat snowfield with plenty of space for tents. From C1 we cross a small plateau and climb up to Camp 2 on another-ski able and snowboard-able snowfield.
Camp 2 (6700m) ia also located on a large flat platform. We cross large snow plateau largely flat with some minor up and down slope to eventually reach another 30deg headwall, one is is marginal for skiing due to protruding rocks.
Camp 3 ((7400m) is located on a protected and safe rock crowned flat buttress at the bottom of the North ridge.
Summit day is a steep ascend on a snow and rock ridge to the snow knob of false central summit. Most of climbers finish here and do not attempt snowy knife-edge ridge to the real summit less then 15m higher. The view is tremendous from here on Cho Oyu, Everest and number of 7000m satellite peaks surrounding Shisha.
Skiing Possibilities
Most of the climbing is on ice and snow slopes up to 30 degrees with a few very short sections of steeper rock and ice. This makes it a perfect for ski and snowboard descent. The first ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak was on September 19, 1987, when Polish climber Jerzy Kuczka reached the summit of Shishapengma and then skied down.
Is Climbing Shishapangma in Spring Better Then Autumn?
On Shisha like Cho Oyu it doesn’t matter. Each season has is slightly different and has different attractions but for Shisha being lower then Everest the reliability odds of good weather are roughly even.
Spring starts cold and then warms up so acclimatization is tough but the climb can be pleasant with slightly longer days and warmer temperatures. In spring you wait for transition between winter winds and monsoon snowfall. You don’t want to get big a snow dump on Shisha because of objective avalanche danger on its 30deg slopes and the steep North ridge. The visibility in spring is usually not as clear as in autumn. Optimum spring summit usually is in around mid-May.
Autumn climbing is nice and comfortable. It is easy to acclimatize and you basically wait for the weather transition from monsoon to winter, when winds stop before they change direction. There is lots of snow and high objective avalanche danger, so you basically wait for snowfall to stop and snow to consolidate, and hope for no snow dump just before you ready for your climb. The visibility is superb, crisp and crystal clear. Optimum autumn summit is around end of September and early October before winter cold winds set in.
Testimonials
“Professional mountaineering operator in the Himalayas – Shishapangma Autumn 2011!”
Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition is our partner of choice when organizing our trips in the Himalayas. We have worked with Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition on two occasions - spring and autumn of 2011 in Shishapangma South face and Cho-Oyu normal route. we found the services, staff and overall dealing with the management as being highly professional and very accommodating. This is the reason we decided to have Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition as our logistics partner for any of our Nepal, India, Bhutan .............Read More
Shishapangma Climbing Map
Shishapangma Expedition Itinerary - Autumn 2013
Sep01/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Airport & transfer to hotel(1350m)
Sep2-3/Day02-03: Rest and prepare day for assignment & briefing.
Sep04/Day 04: Early in the morning drive from Kathmandu to kodari Border (720m) after immigration formalities you may cross border and then Drive to Naylam(3700m) which takes two hours drive by land coursers jeep over night in Hotel.
Sep05/Day 05: Rest Day in Naylam for Acclimatization
Sep06/Day 06:Drive from Naylam to Chinese base camp (4,800m) which takes about four hours and overnight in Camp.
Sep7-8/Day07-08: rest Day at Chinese Base Camp for acclimatization
Sep09/Day09: Trek from Chinese base camp to middle Camp(5220m)
Sep10/Day10:Trek from Middle Camp to Advanced Base Camp of Shisapangma (5,400m)
Sep11/Day11-38: Climbing period to summit Shishapangma(8012m), Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Summit
Oct08/Day 39 : Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) and trek to Middle camp (5200m) and then drive to Naylam(3700m) over night in hotel.
Oct09/Day 40: Drive from Naylam to Zhanmu to Kodari Border and after immigration formalities from china side, we may collect Nepal visa from immigration office and then drive to Kathmandu transfer to hotel.
Oct10/Day 41: Leisure Day and shopping in Kathmandu.
Oct11/Day 42: Full Day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley (DurbarSquare, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath & Pashupatinath) and Nepalese cultural program with farewell dinner in the evening.
Oct12/Day 43: Final departure ,or alternative Join other activities
Note:
- the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
- the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
- For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
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The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
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Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Island Peak Climbing Trip
Full Board Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$4950);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam (B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Shisapangma along North ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Emergency Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3 ·
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- Required Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during Climbing Period Per peron
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Full Board Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
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Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides (When you summated you have to pay) as per Mountaineering Association rules.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Base Camp Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$4950);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam(B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff in Chinese Base camp and advance Base camp;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along North ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for climbing crew at base camp and chinese Base Camp.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3
- Personal climbing gears;
- Climbing Guide(s)
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.
Rental Price List
| Item | Rental Cost US$ | Purchase Cost US$ |
|---|---|---|
| Expedition Tent | US$ 150.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Rucksack (small) | US$ 50.00 | US$ 150.00 |
| Rucksack (large) | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Gas Stove | US$ 25.00 | US$ 100.00 |
| Oxygen bottle | - | US$ 500.00 |
| Oxygen mask + Regulator | US$ 250 (second Hend) | US$ 900.00 |
| Sleeping bag | US$ 100.00 | US$ 400.00 |
| Down Jacket | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| High Camp Goose Down Jacket | US$ 200.00 | US$ 500.00 |
