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Shishapangma North Expedition (8,027m, 26,335ft)

  • Overview
  • Autumn Dep.
  • Spring Dep.
  • Cost Include/Exclude
  • History
  • FAQs
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Facts of the Trip

Highest access: 8,027m (26,335ft)

Duration: 44 days (typically) Days

Location: Langtan Range/Tibet

Grade: Moderate/Strenuous snow climb

Himalayan sights: Everest, Cho-Oyu, Friendship peak

Accommodation: Tourist standard to five star as request

Transportation: Car, Jeep, Mini Bus

Group Size: 02-10 person per Group

Best season: Late spring and autumn

Major Activity: Trekking/Mountaineering

Include Activity: Visit tibeten cultureat Tingri

Country: Tibet, China

Airport: Kathmandu Airport

Departure From: Kathmandu Intl Airport

Meals: B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing

Culture: Tibeten Culture

First Ascent: Joseph Hsu Ching (China), 1964

Mode of Travel: Tea house on trek & Camping during climbing

Climbing route: Northwest Ridge/Northeast ridge

Co-ordinates: 28°21'08''N, 85°46'47''E

Out of 14 8000m peaks in the world Shishapangma is the one and is itself a 14th highest peak with the elevation of 8028m only. It is considered as one of the easiest 8000m peak and the highest peak in the Langtang Himalayan range completely lies in Tibet.

The trademark of this mountain is a long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, makes an imposing sight to all climbers of the world. The Nepalese used to call this mountain as Gosaitan meaning “The Holy Place”. The Tibetans call it as Xixapangma and it means literally "The Mountain overlooking the grassy plains".

The first ascent to this Shishapangma Peak is credited to Mr. Hsu Ching including his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964 and it was finally opened to foreigner’s teams in 1980 only. This mountain used to be climbed as the preparation of Mt. Everest Expedition. Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition had begun to operate Shishapangma Expedition for adventure climbers since the year 2011 and to be continuing now and onwards in both spring and autumn season. We were unable to operate this mountain in autumn 2015 due to unavailability of expedition permit through Chinese authority because of the devastation earthquake of 25th April 2015 and blockade of Kodari border with the side effect of massive and terrifying earthquake. Each year in spring and autumn Snowy Horizon Expedition has fixed departure schedule and bookings as well. Offering both full board and base camp logistic services for this expedition Snowy Horizon announces for the booking of the Snowy Shishapangma Expedition Spring and autumn 2016 and 17.

The normal route of Shishapangma is non-technical with big skiable snowfields, spectacular ridge to the summit and little objective danger. However Snowy Horizon offers you a safe, interesting and stimulating climbing with Sherpa guides or you own alpine style. We train in technical western style climbing, and providing quality base Camp service with full of logistics and equipments. You can observe our list of services in the package and we do welcome you warmly and hearty in your precious youngest 8000m Shishapangma Expedition with pioneer and emerging expedition operator the Snowy Horizon Team.

01Sept/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer.

02-03Sept/2-3: Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities.

04 Sept/Day 04: Early morning departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m); border formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m); overnight in hotel.

05 Sept/Day 05: Two hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

06 Sept/Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

10 Sept/Day 10: Hike to the Middle Camp (5200m); camping.

12Sept/Day 12-38: Climbing period to summit Shishapangma (8012m), Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Summit.

09Oct/Day39: Preparation to return to Kathmandu; Clean Base Camp and trek to Middle camp (5200m) and then drive to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

10 Oct/Day40: Six hours drive from Naylam to Zhangmu; overnight in hotel.

11 Oct/Day41: Early morning drive to the border at Kodari; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu.

12Oct/Day 42: Leisure day in Kathmandu (Contingency day).

13 Oct/Day 43: Leisure day, sightseeing in Kathmandu (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath, & Pashupatinath); Farewell-Celebration dinner.

14 Oct/Day 44: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

  • Cost depends on Group size and Hotel Category in Hotels in Kathmandu.
  • The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers.
  • Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified.
  • Additional activities may be added as climbers request with appropriate additional cost.
  • For any kind of change please contact us by mail or call.

08 April/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer.

09April/Day 02-03: Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities.

11April/Day 04: Early morning departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m); border formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m); overnight in hotel.

12 April/Day 05: Two hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

13 April/Day 06: Rest day for acclimatization; hike to the hill above the city; overnight in hotel.

14April/Day 07-09: Four hours drive from Naylam to Chinese Camp (4900m); acclimatization; camping.

17April/Day10: Hike to the Middle Camp (5200m); camping.

18 April/Day11: Hike to Base Camp (5400m) on Shishapangma moraine; camping.

19 April/Day12-38: Climbing period to summit Shishapangma (8012m), Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, Summit.

16 May/Day39: Preparation to return to Kathmandu; Clean Base Camp and trek to Middle camp (5200m) and then drive to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel.

17May/Day 40: Six hours drive from Naylam to Zhangmu; overnight in hotel.

18May/Day 41: Early morning drive to the border at Kodari; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu.

19May/Day 42: Leisure day in Kathmandu (Contingency day).

20May/Day 43: Leisure day, sightseeing in Kathmandu (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Bouddhanath, & Pashupatinath); Farewell-Celebration dinner.

21 May/Day 44: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities.

Note:

  • Cost depends on Group size and Hotel Category in Hotels in Kathmandu.
  • The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per needs and time frame of trekkers.
  • Cost will be re calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified.
  • Additional activities may be added as climbers request with appropriate additional cost.
  • For any kind of change please contact us by mail or call.

Expedition Cost:

  •  Negotiable and Depends on Group Size.

  •  Please Contact at info@trekkingagencynepal.com

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  • Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Shishapangma climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200 per person).
  • Tibetan official Liaison officer for Shishapangma Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam -Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for sharing base camp staffs.
  • Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkies-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Climbing guide; Oxygen and mask-regulator; ice fall charges and tent for camp 1, 2, 3.
  • Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp.
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and member.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.

Cost Includes

  • All arrival and departure transfer services to and from International Airport.
  • Snowy Horizon’s assistance at International airport while arriving and departing.
  • Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan.
  • Kathmandu Kodari-Kathmandu transfer with logistics.
  • Tibet travel visa and permit for climbing member and involved staffs.
  • Shishapangma climbing permit with Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200 per person).
  • Tibetan official Liaison officer for Shishapangma Expedition fully paid.
  • Jangbu-Nyalam-Chinese Base Camp and VV all accommodation, meal and transportation (B/L/D).
  • All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, chairs and tables etc.
  • Food during expedition period for expedition members and staff cooked by our cook.
  • 1:1 experienced climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staffs sharing with team.
  • Cargo and duties clearing assistance service.
  • Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group.
  • Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members.
  • Each expedition member will have an individual tent in the ABC.
  • 2 Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (Optional).
  • Insurance, wages, meal allowances for private Sherpa and sharing base camp staffs.
  • Ice falls charges and all tent for camp 1, 2, 3 sharing with private Sherpa
  • High altitude food for Sherpa and climbing member.
  • Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
  • First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
  • Satellite phone carrying by guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
  • All necessary paper works, office service charge and Government taxes levied in Nepal.
  • Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure assistance services (if necessary).
  • Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu.
  • Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
  • Our service Charges.

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
  • Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars other than provided high altitude food.
  • Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips etc.
  • Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones and Internet expenses.
  • Clothing, packing Items or bags, personal medical kit, personal trekking/climbing gears.
  • Any extra services or products or offers or activities not mentioned in the itinerary.
  • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
  • Any additional staff other than specified.
  • Rescue, repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses.
  • Medical-travel insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
  • Airfare of international and domestic flights.
  • Nepal entry or re-entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival).
  • Ice fall garbage deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
  • Nepal custom duty fees for import of expedition goods.
  • Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost (US$ 800 approximately).
  • Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
  • Any other item not included in “The cost includes” Section.

1964 First Climb on Shishapangma

Shishapangma was first climbed via the Northwest Face and Northeast Ridge and face (Northern Route) on May 2, 1964 by a Chinese expedition led by Xǔ Jìng.

1980s Attempts

2nd Ascent via Northern Route by Michl Dacher, Wolfgang Schaffert, Gunter Sturm and Fritz Zintl (7 May); Sigi Hupfauer and Manfred Sturm (12 May); as part of a German expedition 1980.

3rd Ascent via Northern Route by Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes (13 October), as part of an Austrian 1980 expedition.

04th Ascent

4th Ascent via Northern Route by Junko Tabei, Rinzing Phinzo and Gyalbu Jiabu (30 April) as part of a Japanese Women's 1981 expedition.

5th Ascent via Northern Route by Reinhold Messner and Friedl Mutschlechner (28 May), as part of an Austrian 1981 expedition.

05th Ascent

In 1982 British Route, Southwest Face was climbed alpine style by Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones (all UK), (28 May). Route follows the right-hand couloir on the Southwest Face.

06th Ascent

In 1987 West Ridge was climbed by Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer (18 September). Kukuczka skied from near the summit. This was Kukuczka's fourteenth 8000 metre peak.

07th Ascent

In 1987 Central Couloir, North Face was climbed by Alan Hinkes and Steve Untch (19 September).

2005 First Winter Ascent

First winter ascent was by Piotr Morawski (Poland) and Simone Moro (Italy); They summated on January 14.

An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 17 tallest peaks in the world, which are all above 8,000 meters in altitude. Ten of these mountains are located in the Himalaya Range of Nepal. Summit bids for these 8000 meter mountains range in duration from 45 to 60 days from base camp. These 8000 meter mountains range in height from 8,091meters to 8,848 meters. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism in Nepal and the Tibet mountaineering association in Tibet.

There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permits for these mountains. Any climber with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8,000 meter mountain. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000 meter peaks and general skills and knowledge with ice and rock climbing. Experience and knowledge of ascent and decent on fixed lines and the proper use of ice axe and crampons are also a plus. Attempting these types of peaks also requires excellent physical fitness and good health.

Snowy Horizon Treks and Expeditions operate 8,000 meter expeditions in both the spring and autumn climbing seasons. Climbing an 8,000 meter peak is a serious physiological and physical undertaking with snow climbing and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000M climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000m expedition. Previous 6000m or 7000m experience is fully support and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this

Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude regions and have spent much of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide extensive training to our guides in technical climbing as well as English, customer relationships and Wilderness First Aid. These guides are all certified mountain guides via the Nepal Mountaineering Association and generally have three former summits of the 8,000 meter peak that they are guiding.

Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with TAAN and NATHAM and have many years of experience. These workers are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and this is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistical services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.

To climb peaks of this altitude, fitness is very important, not only for the opportunity to succeed, but for the clients overall safety and enjoyment. Excellent physical fitness is required. Our guides like to tell clients, “Be in the best shape of your life”.

A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa Guide will lead all expeditions on 8,000 meter peaks above base camp. On the approach to base camp our teams may be lead by a licensed Sirdar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.

Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will be waiting for you at the airport. Clients will need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. The Kathmandu International terminal is very small and once you exit the airport terminal, you should see our representative holding a placard with your name. We will then transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all client flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and be waiting for you.

Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation.

You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter supported medical transportation and rescue. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates.

Spring and autumn are the best seasons for climbing in Nepal and more specifically September-October and April-May are great months. The season for climbing 8,000 meter peaks in Pakistan run from June through August.

There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb an 8,000 meter peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibet Mountaineering Association requires a minimum of two persons to issue the climbing permit. With that being said climbing solo is generally more expensive and much less safe. We highly recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.

Time requirements vary for different peaks and the variety of weather conditions. Generally most of 8,000 meter peaks require 25-30 days to summit once getting to base camp. This time can also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and elevation.

Persons below 16 years of age are restricted from climbing 8,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya of Nepal. Tibet does not allow persons under 18 years of age to climb 8,000 meter peaks.

On popular trekking trails we utilize lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be provided by the lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice, and dishes. On certain 8,000 meter trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or not available. In these instances, accommodations will be via tents and the meals will be provided by our staff. While in base camp our expedition cooks will prepare meals and above base camp the meals will be provided by our climbing Sherpa.

Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly more places get mobile coverage from a variety of carriers. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some options are for the clients to use a Satellite communication device like a Delorme, or a satellite phone.

At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is generally manageable through appropriate trekking pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. Sunburn can also be an issue at altitude, so the use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important.

Simply click on COST INCLUDED, table where you will find a list of everything that is included on your expedition. . If you have any questions, please contact Snowy horizon treks at info@trekkingagencynepal.com .

Most of the 8,000 meter expedition equipment, food, climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. After that we will use Yaks, porters, or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will also assist in carrying the clients gear to the higher camps. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as requested), setup your tent and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light loads to the high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to carry your food, equipment, tents, and climbing gear on your own and open the route.

We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible and our cooks have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount of calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.

In the high camps we utilize freeze dried packaged foods from the USA or UK. They offer a variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa will melt sufficient ice for hot water, tee, coffee and verity of juice. At camp one, it may be possible to supply food from base camp.

The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are generally located in a safe location, however camp 1 has to be chosen wisely due to some areas are prone to heavy snow accumulation. Camp 3 is located below the yellow band on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.

All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are generally easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and generally require more time. Since spring 2015 Nepal Immigration has introduced a computerized automated visa system making the arrival immigration process fast and convenient. For Tibet expeditions you will need a two week single entry visa on arrival and a two week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000 meter Himalaya expeditions will be more than 40 days, so we advise that you obtain a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$ 100.00. If you are going to leave Nepal within 24 hours you may request free transit visa.

Yes, you are required to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect the visa and climbing permit at the same time. You will not need to obtain a Chinese visa and a main land Chinese visa does not work in Tibet.

We use a jeep or mini bus to travel to Kodari. Upon crossing the Tiber border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nylam and Tingri, on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After acclimating for two days at the Chinese base camp, we will trek for two days to reach advanced base camp.

Yes, the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.

In Kathmandu we provide the requested category of hotel accommodation which is located in quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transportation and accommodation services between the border and the base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA is very basic, but due to Chinese policies we have no control or influence over these accommodations.

Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works well for 8,000 meter peaks. One sleeping bag is utilized and kept in base camp. This bag should be rated -20 to -25 C and the second bag used in the high camps should be rated -30 to -40 C. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available in the lodges in Nylam and Tingri, but some clients prefer to use their -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges.

Snowy horizon will provide a thick quality pad for use in base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for the higher camps. Foam pads generally work best, but some clients prefer air mattresses.

Please click on the climbing equipment list where you will find the recommended climbing gear list. If you need further information please contact us at  info@trekkingagencynepal.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot.  In 8000m expedition we advice to use One sport  millet or La-sportiva   climbing boots,  personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bod), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prusik loops (2 long and two short. Your info pack will contain details.

There are several options for acclimation for Cho Oyu. Ascending a 6,000 meter peak prior to an 8,000 meter peak is a good option. Some of our clients take advantage of our climbs of Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will provide acclimatization to 6,000 meters, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp1 and camp 2 on most 8,000 meter peaks. If you don't have the time or resources you can acclimatize during the trip from the border to base camp. Most of the 8,000 meter expeditions you will ascend and descend several times between from base camp to the higher camps.

The risks during an 8,000 meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injury, or frostbite. SNOWY HORIZON maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. Each team has an appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit, trained staff to use this equipment. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite with more serious issues requiring emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet, therefore all rescues are by Jeep and manpower and in Nepal manpower and helicopters rescue. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as snowfall, avalanches, landslides and potential earthquakes. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions, which include back-up communication devices to our office in Kathmandu to assists us with any emergency. In case of road blockages during massive landslides or earthquakes we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa in Tibet and helicopter in Nepal. Such an evacuation is considered emergency evacuation due to a natural disaster and the cost of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.

Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to the decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and intercellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude, thus it is vital you monitor your own health.  Generally higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it is ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:

  • Headache
  • Difficulty sleeping
  • Shortness of breath
  • Loss of appetite
  • Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
  • Irritability
  • Fatigue
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Dizziness
  • Rapid pulse
  • Swelling of hands, feet & face

Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:

  • Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
  • Chest tightness or congestion
  • Confusion
  • Cough
  • Coughing up blood
  • Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
  • Grey or pale complexion
  • Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
  • Shortness of breath at rest

At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?

  • Breathlessness
  • A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
  • Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
  • Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
  • Severe fatigue, progressing to coma

WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?

  • Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
  • Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
  • Nausea/vomiting
  • Loss of balance or coordination
  • Blurred or double vision/retinal haemorrhage

Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:

  • Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
  • Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
  • Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colourless urine
  • Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
  • Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600m above 2,400m
  • Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
  • Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor you all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help to carry your day pack or change a pace, take an extra day of rest or descend if necessary.
Your guide will carry some medications in the group first aid kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprophen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication.  Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination.  Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.

With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter.  Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.

An expedition on Cho Oyu is a very serious physical and physiological undertaking with some technical aspects.  Excellent physical condition is a must.   Many of our clients for Cho Oyu expeditions are cyclist, recreational runners and fitness enthusiast.   Some of these clients ride 50 to 100 km bike rides, run marathons, or compete in triathlons.  If clients are participating in these are similar fitness endeavors, the next step would be to ramp up your training for 3-4 months prior to the expedition.  This should adequately prepare you for this kind of trip.  This 3-4 months of training should consist of running three to four times weekly trying to get your 10km within 1 hour or 100km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain the pace needed for this trip.   To help prepare, you should incorporate outdoor step training or riding hills a minimum of twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more prepared you will be for the expedition. 
There is section of 10m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.

Our expeditions are scheduled during spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon change period.  This allows us to have a summit bid when the wind stops on most 8,000 meter peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction.   The difference between spring and autumn expeditions is the change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to colder respectively.

Complete the booking form on the related trip on the booking page.  Select the size of your group and required services and obtain our price for your group.  Simply click on BOOK NOW/INQUIRE FORM button and give us required details.   In order to secure your booking we require a 30% deposit for your trip.  We will also require a scanned page of your passport, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details.  An additional 30% of trip cost should be paid as a 2nd installment at least 15 days prior to leaving your country of residence.  The balance should be paid in Kathmandu upon arrival. 
For more details about booking process and down payments please visit below links.
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/terms_conditions.php
http://www.trekkingagencynepal.com/how_to_book_trek_in_nepal.php

When you arrive at base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and preparation for proper acclimation.  Upon completing a Pooja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and set up camp 1.  Once the camp is set up, clients will be taken to camp 1 to acclimate.  Depending on your physical fitness and bodies’ reaction to altitude, you may stay at camp 1 for another night, or move up to camp 2 and then descend back to base camp. 

Next our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix lines to camp two and supply gear, equipment and food.  We will then provide a similar acclimatization.  If  required and the weather conditions allow, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and then return back to base camp via camp one.  During your rest and time at base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen, and equipment and prepare for the summit push.

After your camp one and two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions.  If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will begin the summit push. On the summit push, you will move to camp 1, camp 2 and then camp 3 before moving to the summit.  At camp 3 you will awake at 01:00 hours and begin the summit push.

If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence) we have to return base camp before summit push, but still we have climbing duration, weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try we will provide once more opportunity. However, more than 98% people either success or give up the trip after first trying to summit with camp one, two and three experience and acclimatize.

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