Shishapangma South Face Expedition (8,012m)
The Shisha Pangma is the 14th highest peak of the world; considered by many as one of the easiest 8000m mountains to climb. Shisha Pangma is the highest peak in the Langtang Himal and is the only 8000m peak totally located within Tibet but it is also the closest 8000m peak to Kathmandu. Its trademark a long, steep, craggy southern face rising over 2000m, makes an imposing sight to all would be climbers. The Nepalese name of the peak is Gosaitan meaning “The Holy Place”. The Tibetan name is Xixapangma and it means literally "The mountain overlooking the grassy plains".
Shisha Pangma was the last of the 8000m peaks to be climbed. The first ascent was via Northwest Face and North ridge and it is credited to Hsu Ching and his ten-man Chinese climbing team in 1964. Shisha was closed to foreigners until it was finally opened to foreign teams in 1980.
Shishapengma can be climbed from both sides South and North. The standard commercial route is from North and it is a easy climb from technical aspect. The South side is a considerable technical effort due to massive 2000m face and has few challenging lines requiring good level of alpine climbing experience and it is definitely not beginners route. The access to both Base Camps is very convenient by SUV from Naylam, a considerable and rapidly expanding town and two days of hike to the Advanced Base Camp (5800m).
Our Shishapangma Climbing Services
In the Base Camp: Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day. In the Base Camp we provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. In the Base Camp we provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries
Full Board on North Side: For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 and high camps/bivvies including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day.
South Side Climb:British Route is a big classic alpine wall and climb to be undertaken by experienced climbers only. It is an amazing alpine style route with intermediate bivvy after attaining acclimatization on another peak. We can arrange A grade climbing Sherpa for climbers requiring such assistance.
Approaches to ABC
From Kathmandu:
Our standard expeditions start from Kathmandu. We cross the border to Tibet in Kodari. After 2 days of acclimatization at 3400m in Nyalam, we take 5hrs Jeep drive to the Drivers Camp at 4900m located 18km North of Shishapangma. Another possibility is to fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa/Tibet. From Lhasa it takes 2 days to get to the Drivers Camp.
It takes two days from the Drivers Camp to reach the North Base Camp (5800m). From here we execute our climb through 3 High Camps arrangement.
The South Base Camp is located only 33km from Naylam and it is reached by 3 days hike along the Nyanang Phu Chu valley with Yak caravan to the Advanced Base camp (5800m) at the base of the South Face. This is excellent way to attain the acclimatization.
Climbing Routes
South Route:South Face was climbed first in 1982 alpine style British team of climbers Doug Scott, Alex Macintyre and Roger Baxter-Jones and hence the route is traditionally called British Route. Since then there were few variations to the route established by various climbers as well as shorter and more direct summit route to the left of the original British Route. Altogether there are 6 reported routes on the Southwest Face and all of them are hard, climbing steep snow and ice, while crossing bands of rock.
Most ascents have been done alpine style or semi-alpine style with bivouacs on a scratched out platform each night. The British route (red line on topo) is not difficult for experienced ice climbers but very rewarding with spectacular setting inside the peapods of the couloir surrounded by rock walls and stunning views all the way; it is a snow and ice couloir never steeper then 55deg however it is sustain route and requires extreme level of fitness and a solid acclimatization.
The obvious down climb route is to the North side but it is logistically inconvenient, so most of climbers down climb the Northeast ridge to the col of Pungpa Ri (green line on topo) at about 7300m and then follow a long 45deg snow field. Down climb route skirts to the west to clear the hanging glacier and seracs of Punga Ri. Some climbers also down climb via British Route, which is shorter and faster but technically much more difficult undertaking.
2000m route requires prior acclimatization and Punga Ri (7445m) is a perfect via Southwest Couloir and the Ridge (blue line on topo). 45deg ice route is also a good ice climbing refresher before the Shisha attempt.
Download Free Topo Map
DOWNLOAD FREE Shishapangma Climbing Route Topo for Google Earth
Testimonials
Pumori Expedition -Autumn 2009
We have been Travelling Nepal already 2 times for climbing Ama dablam and Lhotse Expedition in Year 2004 and 2007. We used Snowy Horizon Expedition for Pumori Expedition. We went with some international and local companies before we found Rishi Bhandari of Snowy Horizon Manager in 2009. Comparing to all companies that I used before 2004, the quality service level, commitments and Price, we found Snowy Horizon Treks are first class and very satisfied with professional & experienced crews. All the services from Arrival day to Final departure........Read More
Shishapangma South Face Climbing Map
Itinerary Details of Shisapangma South Face Expedition
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and Hotel transfer
Day 02/03:Preparation, Briefings, Last minute shopping and formalities
Day 04: Early morning departure from Kathmandu to Tibetan border at Kadari (720m); border formalities followed by drive to Zhangmu (1600m); overnight in hotel
Day 05: Four hours drive by Jeep from Zhangmu to Naylam (3700m); overnight in hotel
Day 06-07:Rest and acclimatization in Naylam; hike to the hills above the town 4850m/4.5km and 5140m/6km; overnight in hotel
Day 08: Start trek to the South Base Camp; First intermediate camp at 15km (4300m); camping
Day 09: Trek to second intermediate camp at 24km (5100m) at the base of Ramthang Karpo Ri; camping
Day 11: Trek to Base Camp (5600m) on Shishapangma moraine; camping
Day 12-37:Climbing period to summit Shishapangma(8012m); You may consider one or two acclimatization climbs to 6730m peak above the Basecamp opposite Shisha and to 7445m high Punga Ri; Summit attempt depending on climbers skill and fitness can be from a single day continuous climb to one or two bivvy climb.
Day 38: Preparation to return to Kathmandu; Clean Base Camp and trek 16km to intermediate camp (4300m); camping.
Day 40: Trek 15km to Naylam and drive four hours from Naylam to Zhangmu; overnight in hotel
Day 41: Early morning drive to the border at Kodari; border crossing, immigration formalities, collection of Nepalese visa; drive to Kathmandu
Day 42: Leisure day in Kathmandu(Contingency day)
Day 43: Leisure day, sightseeing in Kathmandu (Durbar Square, Swoyambhunath, Boudhanath, Pashupatinath); Fairwell-Celebration dinner
Day 44: Transfer to the airport for final departure or alternatively join other activities
Note:
- the above itinerary is a guideline and standard suggested pattern chosen by majority of our customers. Your final itinerary will be customised according to your available time and requirements.
- the final itinerary duration and schedule may be reduced or extend depending on your time, budget, your fitness, class of service or any other preferences. The quote will be provided for you initial requirements and can be adjusted with mutual agreement should you require modifying these requirements.
- For further information please read: How to book Trip in Nepal?
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The price for your selected peak climbing/mountaineering expedition will vary depending on group size, trip category (full board/base camp service), your budget, individualised itinerary, accommodation (budget to 5 star), level of service above the base camp, the number of climbing guides and porters, kitchen crew, mode of transport you prefer and many other factors. The price range for the same trip can vary widely so if you would like to discuss yourrequirements with us we will provide you a very competitive price
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Please e-mail us for up-to-date prices for Island Peak Climbing Trip
Full Board Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam (B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Shisapangma along North ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- Emergency Oxygen Bottles with mask and regulators (if requested by client)
- We provide Sherpa's tents, food for climbing, and insurance.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3 ·
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 50kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 40kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- Required Experienced, Trained and Government Licensed Climbing Guide(s) during Climbing Period Per peron
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for high altitude and all climbing crew at base camp and above as required.
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Full Board Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Personal climbing gears;
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
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Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa Guides (When you summated you have to pay) as per Mountaineering Association rules.
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Base Camp Service Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfer services to and from Airport both Domestic and International with other necessary surface transport as per itinerary.
- Assistance at the International airport by Snowy Horizon’s representative while arriving and departing.
- Chinese Government Royalty (U$5200);
- Six nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All camping equipment in Base camp and Advance Base Camp;
- Full Board hotel en route in Tibet: Zhangmu, Naylam(B/L/D);
- Food during expedition period for expedition Members and Staff in Chinese Base camp and advance Base camp;
- Tibet Visa and Travel Permit for expedition crew;
- Expedition Permit to climb Cho Oyu along North ridge route;
- All staff during Expedition period with experienced Guide (Base Camp Manager)
- Surface transportation will be available as per itinerary;
- Cargo clearance & Duties Assistance Service free;
- Daily wages, equipment allowance & Insurance for expedition Staff;
- Gamow Bag will be available for expedition group;
- Solar panel for light and batteries charger will be available for expedition members;
- Each expedition member will have an individual tent available in the ABC.
- All Necassary camping equipments like camp furniture, kitchenware, dining tents, guest tents, etc.
- Per person 40kg baggage allowance during trekking-up carrying by porter or Yak and 30kg baggage allowance while returning from Base Camp after climbing the Mountain.
- All wages, equipments, medical and accidental Insurances for all involved staffs.
- First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staffs.
- Satellite phone carrying by Guide for communication and available for members with the cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
- Appropriate food for climbing crew at base camp and chinese Base Camp.
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal
- Complete pre-departure information, flight ticket reconfirmation and visa extension procedure services (if necessary)
- Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with domestic culture show in Kathmandu before departure.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.)
- Our service Charges
Base Camp Service Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner)
- Any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, nutria-bars
- Items of personal nature, Laundry Expenses, Tips
- Expenses incurred towards usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies or satellite phones And Internet expenses
- Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking Gears
- Any extra services or products or offers or activities which are not mentioned in the itinerary
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations,
- Any additional staff other than specified.
- Rescue, Repatriation, Medicines, Medical Tests and Hospitalization expenses.
- Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Travel Insurance and helicopter rescue.
- Airfare of international flights.
- Nepal entry visa fee (Visa issuance is easy at the arrival) and re entry visa fee
- Ice fall Garbage Deposit fees (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Ice falls charges · All tent for camp 1, 2, 3
- Personal climbing gears;
- Climbing Guide(s)
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator.
- Snowy Horizon Service will be "Zero" above Advance Base Camp
- High altitude food for sherpa and member
- Nepal custom duty for import of expedition goods;
- Emergency/Rescue Jeep cost US$700;
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
- Any other item not included in “THE PACKAGE COST INCLUDES” SECTION
Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition offers personal equipment rentals for clients, who have limited cargo allowance with their airfare or do not wish to purchase expensive expedition grade gear but rent it instead.
Clients purchasing Base Camp Services only may choose to hire or purchase high camp equipment.
Please let us know in advance prior to your arrival so that we can meet your needs on your arrival stress free.
The quoted prices are for the duration of the expedition and we provide original North Face, Ozark and Marmot Company Only.
Rental Price List
| Item | Rental Cost US$ | Purchase Cost US$ |
|---|---|---|
| Expedition Tent | US$ 150.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Rucksack (small) | US$ 50.00 | US$ 150.00 |
| Rucksack (large) | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| Gas Stove | US$ 25.00 | US$ 100.00 |
| Oxygen bottle | - | US$ 500.00 |
| Oxygen mask + Regulator | US$ 250 (second Hend) | US$ 900.00 |
| Sleeping bag | US$ 100.00 | US$ 400.00 |
| Down Jacket | US$ 100.00 | US$ 300.00 |
| High Camp Goose Down Jacket | US$ 200.00 | US$ 500.00 |
